Four tips for vegan travellers

Cuban Cuban cuisine is much more than rice, rum and beans. As the country caters to tourists and embraces global food trends, the scarcity of imports and abundance of local produce mean that vegan fare is among Cuba's best gastronomic offerings.

The Cuban diet

Welcome to Cuba: land of rice, rum and beans. More and more tourists are flocking to this colourful and mysterious country that promises decaying buildings, beautiful people and dancing - lots of it. Yet despite its top-grade rum and the infinite cocktails that are shaken and stirred to perfection, Cuba's culinary landscape is readily snubbed.

The Caribbean diet primarily consists of tropical fruit, starchy vegetables, rice, beans and meat, and in Cuba the diet changes according to what's in season as well as the availability of imported goods. Cuba trades primarily with communist countries such as China and Venezuela and, as a result, resources remain limited and meals are often cobbled together with indigenous ingredients such as yucca, maize, sweet potatoes, bananas, eggs, meat, coffee and pulses. There's a lot of dried goods and things in tins.

Nevertheless, despite continuous food shortages across the island, restaurateurs and chefs are creating deliciously innovative dishes - some of which are plant-based - proving that Cuban fare can be a culinary attraction in its own right. What's especially impressive is Cubans' ability to stay on top of global food trends and create menus that are at once dynamic and flavoursome.

Restaurants responding to global tastes

When it comes to plant-based cuisine there are plenty of options, and vegans will no doubt be relieved to hear that it's more than just rice and beans. Major cities and large towns - including Havana, Trinidad and Viñales - have many international and traditional Cuban restaurants with menus clearly labelling whether the dishes are suitable for the meat-free among us.

International restaurants are tailored to tourists' tastes (and budgets), so their dishes tend to be more experimental and in-keeping with global food trends. Chefs in such kitchens can often afford to source imported ingredients, such as speciality cheeses and wines. Tucked away in Havana's trendy student neighbourhood of Vedado, Mediterraneo Habana is a restaurant doing just that, making the most of Italian ingredients such as ricotta, mozzarella and oregano. For under 5 CUC (£3.90) for a stone-baked marinara pizza, vegans can enjoy some of the best slices outside of Naples here.

Al Pirata in Old Havana (Habana Vieja) is one of the few restaurants in the capital with a menu that is 50 per cent vegan and driven by a sustainable, locally sourced ethos. "Even the hot sauce is made by us and is 100 per cent vegan," says head chef, Guillermo. When I ask him if he'll share the recipe, he hesitates, before whispering, "chilli, papaya, basil, olive oil and water. That's it."

Is veganism sustainable in a country with a limited supply of imported ingredients? "It's easy," adds Guillermo. "The Caribbean diet is largely fruit and vegetables anyway, so it's cheaper for us." Al Pirata is in its infancy. Before it became a restaurant, it sold ice cream and smoothies, but just after just four months with an expanded menu, the business is thriving.

What's available: Caribbean dishes (which happen to be vegan)

Cubans are known for their resourcefulness, a byproduct of the US trade embargo. This dictates what's on the menu - if there's a chicken shortage, then there's no chicken for dinner. Due to the Venezuelan crisis, food shortages are happening more and more frequently. It isn't uncommon to see Cubans queuing up in 40-degree heat to access rationed goods. Restaurants are quick to respond to such scarcities and will hastily replace ingredients with substitutes. Ask for fried potatoes and you may receive fried malanga - a similar root vegetable - in its place.

For breakfast, there is an endless supply of pineapple, coconut, bananas, mango, papaya and guava, and you can buy these from merchants in the street. Most restaurants serve a hearty breakfast of bread, fresh fruit juice, eggs (vegans: omit the egg) and coffee, which is deliciously thick and robust, all for less than 5 CUC.

In traditional Cuban restaurants, vegans and vegetarians can count on a few staple dishes that are usually safe options. Try the various soups on offer - flavours often include black bean and pumpkin - although check they don't contain beef or pork stock. Incidentally vegan sides include sweet potato, fruit salad, sautéed vegetables, fried green bananas and plantain - a favourite for its for gooey, melt-in-your-mouth feel. If ordering black beans and rice (or "Moors and Christians" as it's commonly known), do ask if it contains meat - pieces of beef or pork and broth are sometimes thrown into the mix.

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