Saint-Germain-des-Prés has always been the Parisian neighbourhood favoured by intellectuals. From Descartes and Picasso to Simone de Beauvoir and Ernest Hemingway, names notable (and notorious) have all frequented this 6th arrondissement quarter’s elegant streets, but, until recently, it had undeniably fallen out of favour of late.
Younger generations saw it as a playground for rich, spoiled kids, gravitating instead toward the northern arrondissements, considered cooler and more laid-back. Neighbourhoods on the right bank were filling up with new eateries and eclectic concept stores, while districts south of the river seemed stuck in their old ways.
Today, though, the neighbourhood of Saint-Germain-des-Prés is ready to take its crown back: as Roland-Garros roars into town, this southside neighbourhood is where anyone who's anyone is staying, eating and exploring when not taking taxis across the river to sit courtside. Buzzing with new trendy coffee spots, historic and modern art galleries, stylish brasseries, fusion restaurants and concept stores, it’s the Parisian neighbourhood giving the cool kids on the right bank a run for their money. Here’s our guide.
Younger generations saw it as a playground for rich, spoiled kids, gravitating instead toward the northern arrondissements, considered cooler and more laid-back. Neighbourhoods on the right bank were filling up with new eateries and eclectic concept stores, while districts south of the river seemed stuck in their old ways.
Today, though, the neighbourhood of Saint-Germain-des-Prés is ready to take its crown back: as Roland-Garros roars into town, this southside neighbourhood is where anyone who's anyone is staying, eating and exploring when not taking taxis across the river to sit courtside. Buzzing with new trendy coffee spots, historic and modern art galleries, stylish brasseries, fusion restaurants and concept stores, it’s the Parisian neighbourhood giving the cool kids on the right bank a run for their money. Here’s our guide.
Where to stay
Le Grand Hôtel Cayré is the latest addition to Saint-Germain-des-Prés’ impressive line-up of hotels. Opened in the summer of 2024, it’s already buzzing with travellers looking to be in the thick of it – thanks to its enviable location, directly opposite Rue du Bac metro station – and locals hanging out in the bar and enjoying a deliciously traditional meal in the restaurant. The hotel aims to deliver five-star service at four-star prices, with room categories spanning classic, compact spaces to larger suites on the sixth and seventh floors that offer spectacular views of the Eiffel Tower.
Le Grand Hôtel Cayré’s lobby | Credit: James McDonald
If what you’re looking for is classic luxury with an artsy twist, look no further than J.K. Place. The hotel is located minutes away from the famous Musée d’Orsay and the Seine, in the very sophisticated 7th arrondissement. The establishment looks more like a grandiose house than a hotel, with unique and eclectic artwork throughout, from the lobby and the bar to the rooms. The spa, with treatments by Noble Panacea, is relaxing and spacious, with a lovely indoor pool, a sauna and a steam room.
Interior designer and architect Chloé Nègre wasn’t playing around when she decided to make this hotel a little haven of eccentric creativity. Hôtel Saint-André des Arts’ 28 rooms will transport you in a retro dream made of bold colours and 60s-inspired design. There’s no restaurant, but the breakfast room transforms into a bar in the evening. A small wellness space is available, where guests can enjoy a bath soak with a selection of salts and oils or book a massage.
If what you’re looking for is classic luxury with an artsy twist, look no further than J.K. Place. The hotel is located minutes away from the famous Musée d’Orsay and the Seine, in the very sophisticated 7th arrondissement. The establishment looks more like a grandiose house than a hotel, with unique and eclectic artwork throughout, from the lobby and the bar to the rooms. The spa, with treatments by Noble Panacea, is relaxing and spacious, with a lovely indoor pool, a sauna and a steam room.
Interior designer and architect Chloé Nègre wasn’t playing around when she decided to make this hotel a little haven of eccentric creativity. Hôtel Saint-André des Arts’ 28 rooms will transport you in a retro dream made of bold colours and 60s-inspired design. There’s no restaurant, but the breakfast room transforms into a bar in the evening. A small wellness space is available, where guests can enjoy a bath soak with a selection of salts and oils or book a massage.
Hotel Saint-André des Arts
This might be an unpopular opinion, but after a few days feasting on French cuisine in Paris, I love eating Asian food. The variety and quality of the city’s Asian restaurants are unparalleled anywhere in Europe, including London. In Saint-Germain-des-Prés, try The Crying Tiger. Calling itself a “bistro Thai”, you’ll find the trappings of a traditional French bistro alongside plates full of delectable southeast asian flavours. Start with the fish sashimi, move on to the pad thai with shrimp and then finish up with a mango sticky rice.
For French classics with a glass of wine in hand, look no further than Avant Comptoir de la Terre and Augustin Marchand d'Vins. Located in the buzzing Odéon, the former serves French-style tapas: think foie-gras skewers, mini croque monsieurs and mushroom soup. At the latter, wine is king, but the refined French cuisine is a perfect queen consort.
Where to eat
A warm and familiar environment, tasty food and a good wine selection – you’ll find everything you need for a great evening at Fish la Boissonnerie, even as a solo traveller. The food is always delicious, with a seasonal menu that is ever-changing, but I enjoyed a fantastic glazed pork belly with polenta before diving into a classic tarte tatin.This might be an unpopular opinion, but after a few days feasting on French cuisine in Paris, I love eating Asian food. The variety and quality of the city’s Asian restaurants are unparalleled anywhere in Europe, including London. In Saint-Germain-des-Prés, try The Crying Tiger. Calling itself a “bistro Thai”, you’ll find the trappings of a traditional French bistro alongside plates full of delectable southeast asian flavours. Start with the fish sashimi, move on to the pad thai with shrimp and then finish up with a mango sticky rice.
For French classics with a glass of wine in hand, look no further than Avant Comptoir de la Terre and Augustin Marchand d'Vins. Located in the buzzing Odéon, the former serves French-style tapas: think foie-gras skewers, mini croque monsieurs and mushroom soup. At the latter, wine is king, but the refined French cuisine is a perfect queen consort.
J.K. Place
For more of a brunch place, try Saint Pearl. Exposed beams, marble countertops and old-school bistro tables contribute to the charm, but the food is the main attraction. On the menu: spiral omelette, their savoury version of the classic French toast (topped with creamy burrata), Japanese pancakes, and an array of treats, all heavily inspired by Japanese cooking.
If you love the written word as much as you love coffee, you’ll enjoy Bonjour Jacob. The baristas at this busy café really know their stuff, and there’s also a fabulous selection of independent magazines to buy and read while sipping your hot beverage of choice. The shop is small, as most are in Paris, but if you’re looking for a perfectly brewed, fragrant roast, this is the place.
Where to go for coffee (and tea)
A number of Japanese eateries have opened in the neighbourhood in recent years. Benchy is one of the most popular spots, offering coffee, teas and sandos. This small café only has a few seats inside, plus four stools outside for when the weather is nice. The sandos are soft, and generously filled (including sweet options loaded with fresh fruit and mascarpone-based Chantilly cream). It also serves up the best hojicha iced latte in town.For more of a brunch place, try Saint Pearl. Exposed beams, marble countertops and old-school bistro tables contribute to the charm, but the food is the main attraction. On the menu: spiral omelette, their savoury version of the classic French toast (topped with creamy burrata), Japanese pancakes, and an array of treats, all heavily inspired by Japanese cooking.
If you love the written word as much as you love coffee, you’ll enjoy Bonjour Jacob. The baristas at this busy café really know their stuff, and there’s also a fabulous selection of independent magazines to buy and read while sipping your hot beverage of choice. The shop is small, as most are in Paris, but if you’re looking for a perfectly brewed, fragrant roast, this is the place.
Café de Flore, a local icon | Credit: Valentin Kremer
In the mood for fizz? Try a champagne bar. Dilettantes regularly organises champagne tastings in its cellars, including a luxurious champagne and caviar experience. The very knowledgeable staff will take you through bottles from independent viticulturists that you’d be unlikely to come across in more conventional wine bar – and, of course, you can also purchase some afterwards.
Those seeking a cocktail or two should make moves to Le Montana for a martini (or two) on the roof. Reopened in 2023, it’s back to being the place where the young, cool and affluent meet up to drink, eat and party all night long in the neighbourhood. If you want to experience a night out the way the “it girls” of the Rive Gauche would, reserve your table in advance.
Where to drink
Staying sober in Paris is a challenge. With the infinite amount of wine bars, speakeasies, rooftop bars and restaurants, the temptation is too great to resist. Le Comptoir des Canettes – also known as Chez Georges – is the perfect place if you want to have a great glass of wine. This family-run local gem is always buzzing with an eclectic mix of people and, in addition to indulging clients in traditional French wining and dining, puts on jazz and swing concerts most weeks.In the mood for fizz? Try a champagne bar. Dilettantes regularly organises champagne tastings in its cellars, including a luxurious champagne and caviar experience. The very knowledgeable staff will take you through bottles from independent viticulturists that you’d be unlikely to come across in more conventional wine bar – and, of course, you can also purchase some afterwards.
Those seeking a cocktail or two should make moves to Le Montana for a martini (or two) on the roof. Reopened in 2023, it’s back to being the place where the young, cool and affluent meet up to drink, eat and party all night long in the neighbourhood. If you want to experience a night out the way the “it girls” of the Rive Gauche would, reserve your table in advance.
Where to shop
Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the mecca of shopping in Paris; no matter what you’re looking for or what kind of shopping experience you’re after, you’ll find it in its streets. If you want to bring home something local, unique and almost one-of-a-kind, Koshka Paris, Uncouture and Nadine Delépine are a few slow fashion houses based in the neighbourhood making small batches of original style, all made in France and sometimes even handcrafted in Paris ateliers. For jewellery, head to La Fille des Arts.
Marin Montagut | Credit Romain Ricard
A highlight of the neighbourhood are its independent perfumers, creating unique fragrances you’re unlikely to encounter on anyone else. Small perfume house Marie Jeanne has an eco-conscious heart, sticking to sustainable agriculture, with glass bottles made in France. The perfumes come in lovely wooden boxes to avoid plastic waste. And, of course, they smell divine.
Marin Montagut is what all souvenir shops should look like: eccentric, bold, fun and delightfully kitsch. Just don’t expect any plastic Eiffel Towers: behind the emerald, old-school facade, you’ll find porcelain decorated with charming Parisian motifs, customisable glasses, candles, home decor and so much more – a cabinet of curiosities for Paris lovers.
Is there anything sexier than buying lingerie in the City of Lights? Sabbia Rosa is a lovely little boutique loved by Parisians and celebrities alike – go if you’re looking for a little something special to bring home and wear on repeat.
A highlight of the neighbourhood are its independent perfumers, creating unique fragrances you’re unlikely to encounter on anyone else. Small perfume house Marie Jeanne has an eco-conscious heart, sticking to sustainable agriculture, with glass bottles made in France. The perfumes come in lovely wooden boxes to avoid plastic waste. And, of course, they smell divine.
Marin Montagut is what all souvenir shops should look like: eccentric, bold, fun and delightfully kitsch. Just don’t expect any plastic Eiffel Towers: behind the emerald, old-school facade, you’ll find porcelain decorated with charming Parisian motifs, customisable glasses, candles, home decor and so much more – a cabinet of curiosities for Paris lovers.
Is there anything sexier than buying lingerie in the City of Lights? Sabbia Rosa is a lovely little boutique loved by Parisians and celebrities alike – go if you’re looking for a little something special to bring home and wear on repeat.
The Pont Des Arts, leading to the Institut de France, left, and Monnaie de Paris | Credit: Yannick Van Houtven, Katelyn Greer
When darkness falls, there are few better ways to spend an evening than heading to one of the neighbourhood’s many jazz bars. Caveau de la Huchette is timeless and affordable. Want to treat yourself to a fancy night out? Head to The Lutetia’s Bar Joséphine, which organises weekly jazz nights. There’s no entrance fee, but drinks are a little pricier. Signature cocktails start at €28.
For an immersion in French pop culture, head over to Maison Gainsbourg. Located in the 7th arrondissement, the house where the French singer Serge Gainsbourg lived has been kept exactly like it was left when he passed away in 1991. In front of the house, there’s a museum, boutique and bookshop, as well as Le Gainsbarre, a piano bar and cocktail lounge serving classic cocktails and the late star’s favourite drinks: the Gibson, the Terrible, and the 102.
What to do
The Monnaie de Paris and the Assemblée Nationale are must-sees if you’re looking to spend an afternoon at a museum but have already visited the more famous landmarks. Both the Église de Saint-Germain-des-Prés and Saint-Sulpice are free and blissfully unburdened of queues – and just as interesting to visit as more famous Parisian churches. Take a seat (and a coffee) on Café de la Mairie’s terrace, overlooking the Église Saint-Sulpice, for a first-class people-watching session.When darkness falls, there are few better ways to spend an evening than heading to one of the neighbourhood’s many jazz bars. Caveau de la Huchette is timeless and affordable. Want to treat yourself to a fancy night out? Head to The Lutetia’s Bar Joséphine, which organises weekly jazz nights. There’s no entrance fee, but drinks are a little pricier. Signature cocktails start at €28.
For an immersion in French pop culture, head over to Maison Gainsbourg. Located in the 7th arrondissement, the house where the French singer Serge Gainsbourg lived has been kept exactly like it was left when he passed away in 1991. In front of the house, there’s a museum, boutique and bookshop, as well as Le Gainsbarre, a piano bar and cocktail lounge serving classic cocktails and the late star’s favourite drinks: the Gibson, the Terrible, and the 102.
