A quiet kind of magic settles over Sweden in summer. The days stretch long into the twilight, the warm air soft with salt and pine, and across the country, locals trade the city buzz for the archipelago breeze. In these parts, midsummer isn’t marked – it’s felt. A ritual of the season, rooted and radiant, it points toward something greater: something unbound and free.
We set out to follow that feeling, tracing the country’s western coastline from Gothenburg up to the Bohuslän archipelago in search of midsummer. More than a cinematic drive into slow-mo sunsets, we were seeking a deep-dive into the local culture: wild swims, forest baths, kayak tours, authentic crafts, long-table feasts, ferry rides under the stars, and views that might have been designed to recharge the spirit.
Mapping a route along island roads and through red-painted coastal villages, we pit-stopped at design-savvy hideaways, ocean-facing saunas and seafood restaurants serving catch-of-the-day specials on the shore. The version of Sweden we discovered felt real and deeply restorative.
Below is our three-day route through coastal West Sweden – best enjoyed one midsummer moment at a time.
We set out to follow that feeling, tracing the country’s western coastline from Gothenburg up to the Bohuslän archipelago in search of midsummer. More than a cinematic drive into slow-mo sunsets, we were seeking a deep-dive into the local culture: wild swims, forest baths, kayak tours, authentic crafts, long-table feasts, ferry rides under the stars, and views that might have been designed to recharge the spirit.
Mapping a route along island roads and through red-painted coastal villages, we pit-stopped at design-savvy hideaways, ocean-facing saunas and seafood restaurants serving catch-of-the-day specials on the shore. The version of Sweden we discovered felt real and deeply restorative.
Below is our three-day route through coastal West Sweden – best enjoyed one midsummer moment at a time.
Kayak view of Stoken’s cottages on Orust island
In Gothenburg, we pulled out of the airport and onto the motorway, coasting through the leafy outskirts of a city best known for melancholic pop, microbreweries and precision engineering. Yukimi Nagano, the vocalist and songwriter for the Swedish electronic band Little Dragon was born here. As was carmaker Volvo. Urban edges soon softened into waves of wildflowers and tree-lined lanes, with the scent of summer – of wilderness – rushing in through the open windows.
While having a Volvo isn’t a prerequisite for navigating Sweden’s undulating terrain, the EX30 Cross Country and XC60 (a plug-in hybrid) we’d borrowed for the trip had a natural affinity for these roads. Compact, but powerful, with pared-back designs that favours reduction over reinvention, both were made for the kind of road trip that, until then, we’d thought only happened in glossy car ads. Plus, the EX30 is Volvo’s most carbon-efficient model to date.
Just 15 minutes’ outside the city, our first stop is Råda Säteri, an 18th-century manor overlooking Lake Rådasjön. The surrounding parkland calls for lakeside strolls and impromptu picnics, while inside, Rococo-era blue-tiled stoves double as sculptures, casting a gentle warmth. When it’s time for “fika” – the Swedish ritual of taking a break and reconnecting with others – we ordered their cardamom buns: warm, dewy, and brushed with a glint of cinnamon glaze.
Day one: city to sea – Gothenburg to Orust
In Gothenburg, we pulled out of the airport and onto the motorway, coasting through the leafy outskirts of a city best known for melancholic pop, microbreweries and precision engineering. Yukimi Nagano, the vocalist and songwriter for the Swedish electronic band Little Dragon was born here. As was carmaker Volvo. Urban edges soon softened into waves of wildflowers and tree-lined lanes, with the scent of summer – of wilderness – rushing in through the open windows.
While having a Volvo isn’t a prerequisite for navigating Sweden’s undulating terrain, the EX30 Cross Country and XC60 (a plug-in hybrid) we’d borrowed for the trip had a natural affinity for these roads. Compact, but powerful, with pared-back designs that favours reduction over reinvention, both were made for the kind of road trip that, until then, we’d thought only happened in glossy car ads. Plus, the EX30 is Volvo’s most carbon-efficient model to date.
Just 15 minutes’ outside the city, our first stop is Råda Säteri, an 18th-century manor overlooking Lake Rådasjön. The surrounding parkland calls for lakeside strolls and impromptu picnics, while inside, Rococo-era blue-tiled stoves double as sculptures, casting a gentle warmth. When it’s time for “fika” – the Swedish ritual of taking a break and reconnecting with others – we ordered their cardamom buns: warm, dewy, and brushed with a glint of cinnamon glaze.
The Volvo XC60 in Forest Lake on Orust island
From there, the drive shifted gear. Wide motorways gave way to lean coastal roads shaped by glacial force and Viking lore: flat stone-scapes in muted volcanic grey, the sea shimmering silver-blue to the horizon, and traditional Falun-red cottages dotting the shore. Every road trip needs a soundtrack, and Dayvan Cowboy by Boards of Canada scored our journey just like a film: expansive, nostalgic and slightly surreal, all helped by the XC60’s immersive Bowers & Wilkins soundsystem.
Seeking a scenic overnighter, we checked in at Hotel Strana – a design-forward coastal refuge perched on the edge of Orust island. While its strategic location makes it an ideal base, it’s the panoramic spa and seasonal cuisine that left a lasting impression. For a truly Swedish experience, book one of the property’s traditional duplex cottages, complete with its own private entrance, an open-plan kitchen for optional self-catering, and direct access to the water.
From there, the drive shifted gear. Wide motorways gave way to lean coastal roads shaped by glacial force and Viking lore: flat stone-scapes in muted volcanic grey, the sea shimmering silver-blue to the horizon, and traditional Falun-red cottages dotting the shore. Every road trip needs a soundtrack, and Dayvan Cowboy by Boards of Canada scored our journey just like a film: expansive, nostalgic and slightly surreal, all helped by the XC60’s immersive Bowers & Wilkins soundsystem.
Seeking a scenic overnighter, we checked in at Hotel Strana – a design-forward coastal refuge perched on the edge of Orust island. While its strategic location makes it an ideal base, it’s the panoramic spa and seasonal cuisine that left a lasting impression. For a truly Swedish experience, book one of the property’s traditional duplex cottages, complete with its own private entrance, an open-plan kitchen for optional self-catering, and direct access to the water.
Checking in at Hotel Strana’s classic Swedish cottages
For dinner, we headed to Bryggvingen, a scenic restaurant and fish shop hugging the shores of Lyr island, where local seasonal seafood is served with spectacular sunset ocean views and minimal seasoning, keeping the mouthfeel pure and briny. Order local oysters and langoustines and raise a glass of Leiz’ crisp Eins-Zwei zero-proof sparkling Riesling while the sky softens into peachy hues.
My co-pilot and I swapped keys on the drive back (a simple tap via iPhone) and I slipped into the passenger seat. Drowsy from a day of sun, speed and sky, I let the late midsummer light and dreamy sounds of Boards of Canada wash over me. That night, I slept deeper than I had in weeks.
For dinner, we headed to Bryggvingen, a scenic restaurant and fish shop hugging the shores of Lyr island, where local seasonal seafood is served with spectacular sunset ocean views and minimal seasoning, keeping the mouthfeel pure and briny. Order local oysters and langoustines and raise a glass of Leiz’ crisp Eins-Zwei zero-proof sparkling Riesling while the sky softens into peachy hues.
My co-pilot and I swapped keys on the drive back (a simple tap via iPhone) and I slipped into the passenger seat. Drowsy from a day of sun, speed and sky, I let the late midsummer light and dreamy sounds of Boards of Canada wash over me. That night, I slept deeper than I had in weeks.
Ocean view dinner at Bryggvingen on Lyr island
If day one was all soft landings and long shadows, day two had a faster tempo. After a berry-bright porridge breakfast, I jumped into the EX30 and we were off, trading coastal roads for lush forest lanes, dappled light flooding through our trusty steed’s panoramic windshield.
Guided by Allemansrätten – Sweden’s right to roam – we stopped to explore along the way, wandering past slender trees and slate-wet rocks, the hush of birch leaves underfoot, until the woodland of Himlabacken opened up.
The secret to getting the maximum benefit out of a forest bath experience? Take a few deep breaths, ground yourself, and let the silence settle as you sit or lay down. Look up at the leaf canopy above. Soften your gaze. And then? Perfect calm. We basked in the stillness and how safe it felt to simply be, ending the ritual with freshly brewed pine tea.
Day two: into the wild
If day one was all soft landings and long shadows, day two had a faster tempo. After a berry-bright porridge breakfast, I jumped into the EX30 and we were off, trading coastal roads for lush forest lanes, dappled light flooding through our trusty steed’s panoramic windshield.
Guided by Allemansrätten – Sweden’s right to roam – we stopped to explore along the way, wandering past slender trees and slate-wet rocks, the hush of birch leaves underfoot, until the woodland of Himlabacken opened up.
The secret to getting the maximum benefit out of a forest bath experience? Take a few deep breaths, ground yourself, and let the silence settle as you sit or lay down. Look up at the leaf canopy above. Soften your gaze. And then? Perfect calm. We basked in the stillness and how safe it felt to simply be, ending the ritual with freshly brewed pine tea.
Paddling along the tranquil shores of Bohüslan archipelago <
From forest stillness, we turned our attention to open waters. It was time to kayak. Pulling on our life vests, we pushed off into a soft maze of stone islands, paddling past swans, storybook fishing villages and quiet wooden docks. It wasn’t hard to picture Ingrid Bergman, who once summered here, perched on one of them, soaking up the coastal calm.
I imagine she’d approve of our lunch, too. To experience “friluftsliv” – the Swedish art of outdoor living – at its finest, a meal on one of the archipelago’s wild islands is required. We enjoyed fish grilled over open flames, bread twisted on sticks, seaweed-infused drinks and, of course, endless views.
Back in the cars, bellies full, we cruised back to the hotel, feeling grateful for the EX30’s charge – its range comfortably outpaced our daily kilometres – while keeping an eye out for the area’s resident moose and deer.
From forest stillness, we turned our attention to open waters. It was time to kayak. Pulling on our life vests, we pushed off into a soft maze of stone islands, paddling past swans, storybook fishing villages and quiet wooden docks. It wasn’t hard to picture Ingrid Bergman, who once summered here, perched on one of them, soaking up the coastal calm.
I imagine she’d approve of our lunch, too. To experience “friluftsliv” – the Swedish art of outdoor living – at its finest, a meal on one of the archipelago’s wild islands is required. We enjoyed fish grilled over open flames, bread twisted on sticks, seaweed-infused drinks and, of course, endless views.
Back in the cars, bellies full, we cruised back to the hotel, feeling grateful for the EX30’s charge – its range comfortably outpaced our daily kilometres – while keeping an eye out for the area’s resident moose and deer.
A forest-bathing view of Himlabacken
Our final morning began with a plunge from the private jetty of our cottage, the water bracing; light, golden. And continued with a sauna session, complete with salt scrubs and herbal oils, cloud-like daybeds, and quiet views out across the harbour.
Later, on the Hotel Strana terrace, we made midsummer garlands from marigolds, cornflowers and chamomile. For longevity and ease, we were told, it’s best to choose flowers with sturdier stems. There’s something delicately beautiful about weaving tradition into your hair, one flower at a time. Folklore says that placing them under your pillow brings dreams of future love, but that’s not the point. The making has its own kind of magic.
Day three: midsummer magic
Our final morning began with a plunge from the private jetty of our cottage, the water bracing; light, golden. And continued with a sauna session, complete with salt scrubs and herbal oils, cloud-like daybeds, and quiet views out across the harbour.
Later, on the Hotel Strana terrace, we made midsummer garlands from marigolds, cornflowers and chamomile. For longevity and ease, we were told, it’s best to choose flowers with sturdier stems. There’s something delicately beautiful about weaving tradition into your hair, one flower at a time. Folklore says that placing them under your pillow brings dreams of future love, but that’s not the point. The making has its own kind of magic.
Volvo XC60 bathed in Orust’s soft midsummer glow
That evening, we gathered at a long table laid with white linen and wildflowers to toast midsummer. The dishes were delicate and deeply seasonal – salmon with pickled potatoes, chamomile, horseradish and mustard seeds; chanterelles on rye topped with Kalix roe – paired with FX Pichler’s Unendlich, a pure, peachy Riesling with a sheer, endless finish, like late Scandinavian light.
We stayed up until 2am to watch the sea turn silver beneath the midnight sun – a moment I’m glad we didn’t miss. When we left, the next morning, it was reluctantly. As we drove back towards the airport, Dayvan Cowboy played softly in the background, making us nostalgic already for the road trip’s stories, stillness and freedom – a feeling that lingers.
That evening, we gathered at a long table laid with white linen and wildflowers to toast midsummer. The dishes were delicate and deeply seasonal – salmon with pickled potatoes, chamomile, horseradish and mustard seeds; chanterelles on rye topped with Kalix roe – paired with FX Pichler’s Unendlich, a pure, peachy Riesling with a sheer, endless finish, like late Scandinavian light.
We stayed up until 2am to watch the sea turn silver beneath the midnight sun – a moment I’m glad we didn’t miss. When we left, the next morning, it was reluctantly. As we drove back towards the airport, Dayvan Cowboy played softly in the background, making us nostalgic already for the road trip’s stories, stillness and freedom – a feeling that lingers.
