Wandering the high-ceilinged, contemporary art-filled corridors of Seaham Hall, it’s fun to consider how it would’ve looked back in 1815, when romantic poet Lord Byron married local girl Anna Isabella Millbank here. Zingy-clean sea air? Same as it ever was. The former Georgian country house (and military hospital during World War One) is perched on the Durham Heritage Coast, where the constantly shape-shifting North Sea and luminescent, gull-studded sky make it hard to believe you’re just a three-hour train ride from London. Comfort cuisine made with the finest local ingredients? A tradition that’s stuck. Whipped smoked cod roe, heritage breed sirloin steak, and brown butter and almond cake are among indulgences served in the newly refurbished Dining Room restaurant, where, under a 14-carat-gold-plated chandelier, plates arrive bearing characteristically generous, northern portions.
But the hotel’s multi-award-winning, 4,000sq m Serenity Spa? It would blow 19th-century minds. Accessed via a candlelit, Bladerunner-esque tunneled walkway, with a life-sized elephant sculpture greeting guests on arrival, the huge line-up of state-of-the-art facilities includes a salt sauna and herbal sanarium, eucalyptus steam room with amethyst crystal, hydrotherapy infinity pool and 17 cocoon-like treatment rooms. It’s also home to Seaham Hall’s second destination restaurant, the pan-Asian Ozone, which, with its open kitchen, circular outdoor terrace and red-lit centrepiece bar, is more evocative of Singapore than Sunderland. Either way, a “fancy pants” cocktail – Planteray Overproof and Koko Kanu rums, caramelised pineapple and clarified coconut milk – isn’t one you imagine Byron would say no to.
But the hotel’s multi-award-winning, 4,000sq m Serenity Spa? It would blow 19th-century minds. Accessed via a candlelit, Bladerunner-esque tunneled walkway, with a life-sized elephant sculpture greeting guests on arrival, the huge line-up of state-of-the-art facilities includes a salt sauna and herbal sanarium, eucalyptus steam room with amethyst crystal, hydrotherapy infinity pool and 17 cocoon-like treatment rooms. It’s also home to Seaham Hall’s second destination restaurant, the pan-Asian Ozone, which, with its open kitchen, circular outdoor terrace and red-lit centrepiece bar, is more evocative of Singapore than Sunderland. Either way, a “fancy pants” cocktail – Planteray Overproof and Koko Kanu rums, caramelised pineapple and clarified coconut milk – isn’t one you imagine Byron would say no to.
The Ada Lovelace suite
The poet’s marriage, while short-lived (one year and 13 days), produced a daughter – Ada Lovelace. Steered by her mother towards maths and science – in an effort to counter any wilder aspects she may have inherited from her father – Lovelace went on to work on Charles Babbage’s mechanical “general-purpose computer” of the 1840s, creating the first algorithm intended to be processed by a machine. We can assume that “the world’s first computer programmer” would approve of the sumptuous, split-level suite that today bears her name – not least for the twin slipper baths overlooking the gorgeous grounds (or the fact that it got the thumbs-up from former guest Miley Cyrus). Ditto, any one of the three recently unveiled new suites designed by Louise James of Blackthorn Design. Think bold, earthy colours and prints chosen to celebrate the gardens outside, tactile fabrics, luxurious linens, gorgeous carpets and all the creature comforts you’d expect from an independently owned five-star whose afternoon tea brings in devotees from Durham and beyond, counts some 400 locals as spa members, and sees visitors return time after time, not just for the hotel’s location and standout culinary offering, but for a team so genuinely warm and friendly that it may startle some southerners.
You’ll also be well placed to explore the coast’s other treasures. Pick up an illustrated map from reception and head to the beach to hunt for fragments of the saltwater-tumbled sea glass that famously washes up on these shores, a relic of the area’s glassmaking past (and the reason that local beachcombers come prepared with Tupperware containers and trowels). Explore the former coal port of Seaham (hunting for vintage clothes and bric-a-brac in its clutch of brilliant charity shops, including the community-championing Shaw Trust). Then, lace up your hiking boots and set off along windswept clifftop trails, making pit stops at pubs and ice-cream parlours along the way.
Seaham Hall, understandably, is not an easy place to leave. When the time comes for us to check out, it’s to a line of Byron’s that we turn for consolation: “And thus the heart will break, yet brokenly live on.” We’ll be back. And next time, we’re packing a trowel.
The poet’s marriage, while short-lived (one year and 13 days), produced a daughter – Ada Lovelace. Steered by her mother towards maths and science – in an effort to counter any wilder aspects she may have inherited from her father – Lovelace went on to work on Charles Babbage’s mechanical “general-purpose computer” of the 1840s, creating the first algorithm intended to be processed by a machine. We can assume that “the world’s first computer programmer” would approve of the sumptuous, split-level suite that today bears her name – not least for the twin slipper baths overlooking the gorgeous grounds (or the fact that it got the thumbs-up from former guest Miley Cyrus). Ditto, any one of the three recently unveiled new suites designed by Louise James of Blackthorn Design. Think bold, earthy colours and prints chosen to celebrate the gardens outside, tactile fabrics, luxurious linens, gorgeous carpets and all the creature comforts you’d expect from an independently owned five-star whose afternoon tea brings in devotees from Durham and beyond, counts some 400 locals as spa members, and sees visitors return time after time, not just for the hotel’s location and standout culinary offering, but for a team so genuinely warm and friendly that it may startle some southerners.
You’ll also be well placed to explore the coast’s other treasures. Pick up an illustrated map from reception and head to the beach to hunt for fragments of the saltwater-tumbled sea glass that famously washes up on these shores, a relic of the area’s glassmaking past (and the reason that local beachcombers come prepared with Tupperware containers and trowels). Explore the former coal port of Seaham (hunting for vintage clothes and bric-a-brac in its clutch of brilliant charity shops, including the community-championing Shaw Trust). Then, lace up your hiking boots and set off along windswept clifftop trails, making pit stops at pubs and ice-cream parlours along the way.
Seaham Hall, understandably, is not an easy place to leave. When the time comes for us to check out, it’s to a line of Byron’s that we turn for consolation: “And thus the heart will break, yet brokenly live on.” We’ll be back. And next time, we’re packing a trowel.
Rooms
There are 24 individually designed suites (including the dog-friendly Garden Suites), plus four self-catering villas (with private hot tubs) nestled in the hotel’s 15-hectare grounds. We stayed in one of the new suites, which came with high-speed WiFi, a Dualit coffee machine, fluffy bathrobes and slippers, complimentary Marlish water and a bathroom-of-dreams, fully stocked with Temple Spa toiletries and a fabulous free-standing bathtub big enough for three.
A suite bathroom and living space
Head to the Dining Room for refined British comfort classics prepared under the auspices of chef Damian Broom – a cauliflower steak with kale and walnut pesto, perhaps, or wild Whitby sea bass with fennel and mushrooms – or to Ozone for sizzling Asian fare. You’ve also got the bar, where a menu of light bites includes such joys as Cumbrian charcuterie, Lindisfarne oysters, barbequed hispi cabbage and sandwiches served on focaccia made with wild-farmed flour.
A kitchen garden is in the pipeline: ingredients foraged from the grounds such as wild garlic, sorrel, pine, seabuck and gorse flowers are already in play.
What’s for breakfast?
Craster kippers, anyone? A superlative vegan full English? Breakfast is served in the Dining Room from 7.30 to 10am, with a menu that will delight purists and hedonists alike – or fill out the card the night before to feast in bed. A fresh fruit platter and porridge served with a silver jug of double cream? We could get used to this.Lunch and dinner
Head to the Dining Room for refined British comfort classics prepared under the auspices of chef Damian Broom – a cauliflower steak with kale and walnut pesto, perhaps, or wild Whitby sea bass with fennel and mushrooms – or to Ozone for sizzling Asian fare. You’ve also got the bar, where a menu of light bites includes such joys as Cumbrian charcuterie, Lindisfarne oysters, barbequed hispi cabbage and sandwiches served on focaccia made with wild-farmed flour.
A kitchen garden is in the pipeline: ingredients foraged from the grounds such as wild garlic, sorrel, pine, seabuck and gorse flowers are already in play.
The Dining Room restaurant
Yes, one with velvet armchairs, polished marble, stirring sea views and an impressive drinks list offering, among other things, local spirits, rare single malts, and clever Seaham twists on classic cocktails.
Is there a bar?
Yes, one with velvet armchairs, polished marble, stirring sea views and an impressive drinks list offering, among other things, local spirits, rare single malts, and clever Seaham twists on classic cocktails.
Amenities
Bikes are available to borrow from reception for two-wheeled adventures. Carve out some time to spend in the Serenity Spa, which is a highlight. Our tip? Try the restorative Ishga Five-Senses Sound Ritual, which combines scrubbing, cleansing and hot-oil massage with 30 minutes in the Swell Room, where you’ll enjoy an oceanic sound-therapy session from the comfort of a vibroacoustic lounger. The Ishga products used are ethically made on the Hebridean Isle of Lewis, using seaweed hand-harvested from the shore. You’ve also got a 20m indoor pool, Zen garden and saunas, plunge pools, steam rooms and yoga and fitness studios galore.
Outside at the Serenity Spa
Rosy-cheeked and relaxed couples, groups of friends, families enjoying a coastal getaway and solo travellers intent on some uninterrupted spa time.
What are the hotel’s eco-credentials like?
Far-ranging. A partnership with EarthCheck ensures that sustainability initiatives are both measurable and impactful: "Our efforts encompass reducing our carbon footprint, embracing eco-friendly practices, and supporting local communities. We are committed to seeking innovative solutions to minimise waste, conserve energy, and protect our natural surroundings and wildlife in our day-to-day operations." Newspapers are digital, in-room coffee pods are compostable, toiletries refillable, light bulbs LED and EV charging points available.What about accessibility?
Excellent – there’s step-free and lift access throughout, and one of the three new suites is fully wheelchair accessible, with spacious ground-floor living and tech that includes an under-pillow vibrating fire alarm.What’s the crowd like?
Rosy-cheeked and relaxed couples, groups of friends, families enjoying a coastal getaway and solo travellers intent on some uninterrupted spa time.
Outside at the Serenity Spa
Seriously smitten? You might want to consider buying one of 19 luxury residences scattered on the property’s grounds, just completed this year, and among the most luxurious coastal five-star hotel residences for sale in the UK. Picking up a brochure can’t hurt…
Within a short walk I can find…
The beach is only a five-minute walk away, and a 15-minute walk along it will take you to the shops, cafés and attractions of Seaham. Though if you’re intent on finding some of the rarer, multicoloured pieces of sea glass that collectors are always on the lookout for, it could end up taking much, much longer…Things I should know
Served in the Dining Room, Seaham Hall’s afternoon tea is the stuff of local legend. As photogenic as it is delicious, it begins with a pot of loose-leaf tea of your choice, then continues with you determinedly working your way through a grand, multi-level cake stand laden with sandwiches on artisanal breads and delectable sweets that, on our visit, included carrot cake, Amalfi lemon tart (the best we’ve ever tasted) and a Valrhona chocolate eclair. There’s champagne, too, if bubbles take your fancy.Seriously smitten? You might want to consider buying one of 19 luxury residences scattered on the property’s grounds, just completed this year, and among the most luxurious coastal five-star hotel residences for sale in the UK. Picking up a brochure can’t hurt…
The Lowdown
Doubles cost from £299 a night; seaham-hall.co.uk
