I have long wanted to write a book about Turkish cuisine. Living abroad for six years in the US and 15 years in the UK, I’ve seen how the country’s food is mostly associated with kebabs. Many are unaware of the different ways we, as Turks, enjoy seasonal vegetables, legumes and wholegrains.
Türkiye is surrounded by the Aegean, Black Sea and the Mediterranean and has diverse climates and fertile soil, as well as various ethnic communities that have all helped shape regional cuisines. The Marmara and Istanbul region carries the legacy of the Ottoman palace kitchens and its ethnic communities, but you can also find fine examples of regional flavours in Istanbul, as the city is made up of migrants from across the region, including Christian, Jewish, Muslim, Greek, Armenian and Kurdish residents. The city has a vibrant street-food scene, along with bakeries and esnaf lokantası (casual, buffet-style restaurants) serving sweet and savoury delicacies.
Türkiye is surrounded by the Aegean, Black Sea and the Mediterranean and has diverse climates and fertile soil, as well as various ethnic communities that have all helped shape regional cuisines. The Marmara and Istanbul region carries the legacy of the Ottoman palace kitchens and its ethnic communities, but you can also find fine examples of regional flavours in Istanbul, as the city is made up of migrants from across the region, including Christian, Jewish, Muslim, Greek, Armenian and Kurdish residents. The city has a vibrant street-food scene, along with bakeries and esnaf lokantası (casual, buffet-style restaurants) serving sweet and savoury delicacies.
Istanbul is a city made up of migrants who helped developed a vibrant street-food scene, alongside opening celebrated bakeries and esnaf lokantası
Mainland Anatolia, meanwhile, has a harsh climate and the cuisine is largely based on wheat, legumes, dairy, savoury pastries and mutton. Eastern and southern Anatolian cuisine is rich in bulgur-based dishes, as well as kebabs, flavourful condiments, such as pomegranate molasses and pepper paste, and local cheeses. Gaziantep in southeastern Anatolia grows some of the finest pistachios and is home to the best baklava. The climate is hot and dry in summer, perfect for drying and preserving. Şanlıurfa in the region is famous for its smoky isot (Urfa chilli pepper). The Black Sea region produces the nation’s tea leaves, hazelnuts, corn and collard greens, along with the much-loved anchovies (hamsi). The milder climate in the Aegean and the Mediterranean lends itself to seasonal fruit and vegetables, olives, herbs and wild greens.
Mainland Anatolia, meanwhile, has a harsh climate and the cuisine is largely based on wheat, legumes, dairy, savoury pastries and mutton. Eastern and southern Anatolian cuisine is rich in bulgur-based dishes, as well as kebabs, flavourful condiments, such as pomegranate molasses and pepper paste, and local cheeses. Gaziantep in southeastern Anatolia grows some of the finest pistachios and is home to the best baklava. The climate is hot and dry in summer, perfect for drying and preserving. Şanlıurfa in the region is famous for its smoky isot (Urfa chilli pepper). The Black Sea region produces the nation’s tea leaves, hazelnuts, corn and collard greens, along with the much-loved anchovies (hamsi). The milder climate in the Aegean and the Mediterranean lends itself to seasonal fruit and vegetables, olives, herbs and wild greens.
An abundance of fresh vegetables and fruit influence much of the cuisine in Istanbul and beyond
I was born and raised in Türkiye and feel fortunate to have lived in this magical land with its rich heritage and warm culture. I grew up with wholesome, freshly prepared meals using seasonal produce. Some of my fondest memories of my childhood are of daily trips to the farmers’ market (pazar) in Istanbul with my father, Orhan, to pick up the fresh vegetables and fruits on offer, chatting with vendors and making sure to stop by the gözleme (stuffed flatbreads) stall for a snack with a glass of çay (Turkish tea). Coming home excitedly with juicy tomatoes, vibrant aubergines or whatever produce was on offer, my mother, Gülçin, would turn them into tasty türlü casseroles and aromatic pilafs, incorporating vegetables with bulgur, rice, freekeh and pulses.
I was born and raised in Türkiye and feel fortunate to have lived in this magical land with its rich heritage and warm culture. I grew up with wholesome, freshly prepared meals using seasonal produce. Some of my fondest memories of my childhood are of daily trips to the farmers’ market (pazar) in Istanbul with my father, Orhan, to pick up the fresh vegetables and fruits on offer, chatting with vendors and making sure to stop by the gözleme (stuffed flatbreads) stall for a snack with a glass of çay (Turkish tea). Coming home excitedly with juicy tomatoes, vibrant aubergines or whatever produce was on offer, my mother, Gülçin, would turn them into tasty türlü casseroles and aromatic pilafs, incorporating vegetables with bulgur, rice, freekeh and pulses.
Fermentation and pickling are integral to the Turkish kitchen
Generosity and abundance are an important part of daily life in Türkiye; I fondly remember the excitement of Suphi dede (Grandpa) delivering cases of figs, aubergines and tomatoes to the family home, which we shared with friends and neighbours. My father had endless generosity; he loved going to our local farmers’ market to bring home fresh produce. Once I moved abroad, he would mail monthly care packages of nuts from Istanbul to the UK.
I was lucky enough to spend many happy childhood holidays at my grandparents’ 450-year-old stone house in Antakya. This was a warm, special home: pomegranate, fig, mulberry and walnut trees filled the courtyard, with wafting smells of the molasses Grandma (Nazime) made from pomegranates drifting through as Mum made dolma with peppers and aubergines, under the welcoming shade of the trees. Grandma would send us grandchildren to Uzun Carșı, the city’s historic market, to buy cheese, daily bread and yoghurt – I loved walking on the cobbled streets, taking in all the mesmerising smells, colours and daily banter from the merchants.
Generosity and abundance are an important part of daily life in Türkiye; I fondly remember the excitement of Suphi dede (Grandpa) delivering cases of figs, aubergines and tomatoes to the family home, which we shared with friends and neighbours. My father had endless generosity; he loved going to our local farmers’ market to bring home fresh produce. Once I moved abroad, he would mail monthly care packages of nuts from Istanbul to the UK.
I was lucky enough to spend many happy childhood holidays at my grandparents’ 450-year-old stone house in Antakya. This was a warm, special home: pomegranate, fig, mulberry and walnut trees filled the courtyard, with wafting smells of the molasses Grandma (Nazime) made from pomegranates drifting through as Mum made dolma with peppers and aubergines, under the welcoming shade of the trees. Grandma would send us grandchildren to Uzun Carșı, the city’s historic market, to buy cheese, daily bread and yoghurt – I loved walking on the cobbled streets, taking in all the mesmerising smells, colours and daily banter from the merchants.
Generosity and abundance are an important part of daily life in Türkiye
In Sebze, I have researched the rich and diverse regional cuisine of the country extensively, including lesser-known regional specialities alongside popular Turkish recipes. My cooking has always been inspired by this magical land and the warm spirit of Turkish culture. The book is my invitation for readers to embrace the vibrancy, simplicity and generous nature of our cuisine, as well as our rich culinary heritage.
In Sebze, I have researched the rich and diverse regional cuisine of the country extensively, including lesser-known regional specialities alongside popular Turkish recipes. My cooking has always been inspired by this magical land and the warm spirit of Turkish culture. The book is my invitation for readers to embrace the vibrancy, simplicity and generous nature of our cuisine, as well as our rich culinary heritage.
The Lowdown
Sebze: Vegetarian Recipes From My Turkish Kitchen by Özlem Warren, with photography by Sam A Harris (Hardie Grant, £28) is out now; bookshop.uk