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Vucciria
Head to Vucciria during daylight hours, and the market's narrow streets are filled with vendors selling fresh vegetables, giant swordfish heads and piles of slippery sardines. That all changes as twilight descends, when it morphs into a lively local nightspot, packed with young people eating and drinking their way to midnight. Try pomegranate spritzes in the central Piazza Caracciolo for something different, or act like the locals and stick to beer. Drinks rarely cost more than around £2.50, and you can fill up on fried seafood, raw octopus and cheap bowls of pasta.