Read the full story in Volume 38: Flavour.

The unofficial capital of the Côte d'Azur since the 1700s, this shimmering stretch of city has long been a magnet for artists. It was a source of inspiration for belle époque painters Marc Chagall and Pierre-Auguste Renoir, as well as home to Henri Matisse for a large part of his life. Little wonder, when its Promenade des Anglais - a 7km coastal boulevard that stretches along the edge of the city - gives on to uninterrupted views of the glittering-blue Mediterranean, right in the heart of town.

Know where to go in Nice and you'll discover a heady mix of European flavours (the city spent 500 years under the Kingdom of Sardinia, and this Italian influence still informs much of its gastronomy today). Days here are best spent meandering in and out of daily markets in the Old Town (grazing on street snacks like socca - chickpea pancakes - on your way), people-watching along the waterfront or settling in for coffee and pastries at a candy-coloured neighbourhood boulangerie, of which you'll find several in this guide.

Discover more stories from the Flavour issue here.

City by the sea: where to stay, eat, drink and shop in the capital of the Côte d'Azur