A City Guide to Nice, France
A far cry from its glitterati-packed coastal neighbours, this old-world seaside city is a refreshing mashup of colourful street markets, architectural opulence and white-blonde beaches cast with year-round sunshine
18 October, 2022
Read the full story in Volume 38: Flavour.
The unofficial capital of the Côte d'Azur since the 1700s, this shimmering stretch of city has long been a magnet for artists. It was a source of inspiration for belle époque painters Marc Chagall and Pierre-Auguste Renoir, as well as home to Henri Matisse for a large part of his life. Little wonder, when its Promenade des Anglais - a 7km coastal boulevard that stretches along the edge of the city - gives on to uninterrupted views of the glittering-blue Mediterranean, right in the heart of town.
Know where to go in Nice and you'll discover a heady mix of European flavours (the city spent 500 years under the Kingdom of Sardinia, and this Italian influence still informs much of its gastronomy today). Days here are best spent meandering in and out of daily markets in the Old Town (grazing on street snacks like socca - chickpea pancakes - on your way), people-watching along the waterfront or settling in for coffee and pastries at a candy-coloured neighbourhood boulangerie, of which you'll find several in this guide.
Discover more stories from the Flavour issue here.
City by the sea: where to stay, eat, drink and shop in the capital of the Côte d'Azur
hotel
Hôtel la Pérouse
Nice, France
A quintessentially French Riviera hotel tucked between the Old Town and the port, this quaint bolthole offers breezy rooms, many with private balconies that have killer views across the Baie des Anges. But the diamond in its crown? A secluded rooftop terrace we’re calling out as the best spot for sundowners in the whole town.
hotel
The Deck
For those seeking affordable comfort close to the sea, The Deck is ideal – this beachy, blue-and-white hotel is tucked right between the Old Town and the promenade. While the breakfast add-on provides a generous morning buffet, guests will find coffee, pastries and games available around the clock in the communal lounge.
hotel
Sonder at Yelo Jean Médecin
A cool, comfortable design hotel in a classic Haussmann-style building, just a short stroll from Nice-Ville train station. Stylish interiors take inspiration from travels in the Mediterranean, with hues of olive, azure and terracotta, while the decorative touches spring from bohemian Bali.