Founded Founded by the Greeks and later a retreat for 19th-century European elite, Nice has also long attracted artists. Henri Matisse spent much of his later life in or around the city, and Renoir, Arman and Chagall were all inspired by this blue stretch of the Côte d'Azur. With year-round sunshine, a creative spark, seaside location and old-world opulence, its easy to see the allure of Nice. But beyond its flashy facade, the unofficial capital of the Côte d'Azur is a down-played terrain waiting to be explored.

After soaking up the Riviera vibe, head for the Vieux Nice (Old Town), the cultural and gastronomical heart. Stroll through rows of whitewashed buildings sporting candy-coloured awnings or find yourself on a winding backstreet with tatty window shutters and peeling taupe walls. If you you know where to go, you'll discover dimly lit local restaurants serving impeccable seafood and dangerously seductive exposed-brick wine bars. This is how to do Nice properly.