Swiss wine is a highlight of any visit to the country, not least
because Switzerland exports virtually no wine, making these bottles
of chasselas and merlots a rare limited-edition pleasure only
obtainable within Swiss borders. Seek them out on a wine
tour around the picturesque town of Peissy by tuk-tuk, driven
by Sébastien Roevens of Welo, who runs sustainable wine, street art and
history tours of the city. At Domaine Les Perrierès, Frédéric Rochaix, part
of the eighth generation of winemakers at this family-run winery,
will expertly give you the lowdown on the astonishing variety of
wines on offer, which includes pinot noirs, chardonnays, merlots
and gamays. Don’t miss a visit to the deservedly popular local
haunt Café de
Peney for elevated takes on classic Swiss food such as roast
venison, rösti and spätzli (which translates literally as “little
sparrows”, made from dumpling batter).

Life in Geneva doesn’t just revolve around eating; it also
revolves around the lake. And it’s possible to combine these two
pleasures in splendid style at Bain des Pâquis, a café, sauna and bathing
complex on the western promenade of Lake Geneva that dates back to
1872. Don’t be fooled by the no-frills, canteen-like appearance of
the café; this is a cherished local institution with a signature
fondue dish that many Genevans insist is the best in the city. La
Buvette des Bains’ fondue au crémant is a divine concoction
combining sparkling wine with vacherin cheese, and a little lighter
than other fondues, although this is still essentially cheese soup.
Alternatively, to really feel like a local, join the pre-work crew
for a swim in the lake, a sauna and a bircher muesli washed down
with ginger tea.

The bohemian, artsy residents of Carouge don’t enjoy being
informed that they live in Geneva, such is the distinct identity of
this Sardinian enclave – despite being just a 20-minute tram ride
from Geneva’s central station and within the city limits. Carouge
was built by the king of Sardinia in the 18th century, and the
cosier, humbler French-Italian architectural style stands in marked
contrast to Geneva’s grand Haussmann-style mansion facades. Carouge
is one of the most desirable areas for the city’s creatives, with
tiny ateliers, bistros and independent fashion boutiques, plus
indie cinemas and theatres aplenty. The locale also hosts the
city’s loveliest farmers’ market every Wednesday and Saturday, when
fruit and vegetable vendors, pasta makers, cheesemakers and other
farmers and producers take over Place du Marché.

LVX Spirits was born in 2019, the brainchild of Quentin Verne, a
young financier who fell in love with gin during his time in London
and decided to dedicate himself full time to the gin-distillation
process. Today LVX is one of Geneva’s best-loved homegrown spirits
brands, with a young and growing team. Its official HQ and
playground is La Distillerie Bar Lab, where the company combines its
boutique gin distillery with a sleek yet friendly bar. Book a
workshop and you can experiment with different botanicals to craft
your own perfect gin, the team talking you through the gin-making
process as you go. Or, leave the task of blending to the experts
and instead pull up a chair at the bar to work your way through the
gin-based cocktail menu.

Much like watchmaking, chocolate-making is part of Geneva’s DNA.
In the 19th century, Geneva was essentially the Silicon Valley of
the art form, with various chocolate pioneers – François-Louis
Cailler, Phillippe Suchard and Charles-Amédée Kohler – refining the
chocolate-making process. Later, Henri Nestlé was to introduce the
magic ingredient of creamy Swiss milk to the mix, and Rodolphe
Lindt developed a conching machine that evenly distributes cocoa
butter in chocolate. In Sweetzerland, Italian-born master chocolatier Elena
Esposto will talk you through the history of chocolate-making in
the region, before introducing her artisan flavoured truffles and
pralines. These organic creations are developed with an
international palate in mind, and handcrafted from ethically
sourced cocoa from Ecuador, Bolivia, Venezuela, Madagascar,
Cameroon and Java. For the truly dedicated chocolate pilgrim, the
tourist board’s Choco Pass (£28) can be waved in a number of
different chocolate ateliers around the city in exchange for a
tasting plate, so you can craft your own chocolate crawl around the
city.