How to Live Like a Scandi: The Eco-Break Edition

How to Live Like a Scandi: The Eco-Break Edition

Columnist Alexandra Pereira lets us in on how to achieve hygge, lagom and koselig both at home and on minibreaks across Scandinavia. Here she takes an eco-conscious mini-break among the fjords, mountains and saunas of Oslo.



It
may be the home of rather intense black-metal music and
world-famous skiing events, but in Oslo,
warmth and peace are surprisingly easy to come by too. The summers
are famously light and hot, with fjord swims and sunny hikes
aplenty – but as with much of Scandinavia, it’s “snug” and
“dramatic” that the Norwegian capital nails the best.

Oslo may be a tiny city with less than 700,000 residents, but
its eco-credentials punch well above its weight. In 2016 it
introduced a “climate budget” with a goal to reduce emissions by 95
per cent by 2030; 1,000 trees were planted for the Future Library
project two years later; in 2019, it was crowned the European Green
Capital.

Oslo’s young professionals and creatives may scatter themselves
among the hip, diverse neighbourhoods of Grünerløkka and Tøyen, or
the more bougie Frogner and St Hanshaugen – all Parisian-esque
facades and tree-lined streets of mansions – but the main thing
this city’s dwellers have in common is their commitment to time
spent in nature.

Ergo, the city’s green, sustainable-leisure offering is
increasing too. Visitors will find eco-friendly hotels committed to
eliminating waste and championing reusable materials, restaurants
that support third-world communities, as well as spas and saunas
scattered between the city’s central harbour and the dense
surrounding forest.

In a time when travellers are becoming more eco-conscious, it’s
interesting to see Oslo’s dedication to learning and introducing
the bigger ideas behind eco work. Indeed, this year’s Oslo
Innovation Week goes digital with its aim to solve real global
challenges through entrepreneurship, innovation and green tech –
the subjects of its panels include energy, circular economy and
life-science investment.

With all this in mind, Oslo makes a great spot for a sustainable
city-break. We’ve picked out some of the best places to stay and
play for eco-conscious travellers.

STAY


hotel

Oslo Guldsmeden

The small family of eco-friendly Guldsmeden Hotels prides itself on being one of Europe’s greenest stays, with its 99.9-per-cent-organic, pared-back yet cosy rooms peppered across Copenhagen, Berlin, Iceland and such. Set on a quiet, leafy street in Frogner, the Oslo outpost has its own candlelit spa and spacious suites with stand-alone bathtubs, four-poster beds and all-natural furnishings. All toiletries are au naturale too, including the lemongrass body oil, wooden toothbrushes and plastic-free chewable toothpaste.

Address

Parkveien 78, 0254

DO


thingstodo

Get outdoors

With the sheer wealth of open nature skirting the entire city,
it’s no wonder most Osloites’ weekend activities revolve around
getting a fix of the outdoors – it’s more popular than pubbing and
clubbing. A 20-minute scenic tram ride from the city will take you
to the winding hiking routes, dramatic lakes and towering pines of
our favourite forest, Nordmarka. It’s where the trees for Future
Library are planted. After exploring, take the lift to
Holmenkollen, famed for its ski-jumping hill and competitions –
though there’s plenty of ski opportunities for amateurs too.
Workout done, stop by the Bavarian-like Holmenkollen Restaurant for tartare, a hot toddy and
mountaintop views.


thingstodo

The Well

A magnificent, high-design wellness centre where the robes are thick, the sculptures are world-famous and phones are literally swiped from your hand if used in the restaurant. Standing just outside the city, The Well collects sauna and bathing rituals from across the world under one enormous, space-age roof. It feels part Swiss health clinic, part Japanese ryokan and every part Nordic seamless. A golden bus transports visitors 20 minutes back and forth between the city centre and the complex, where you can easily spend an entire day luxuriating in the pools, saunas, massage rooms and organic cafés. Those, combined with the manicured gardens lined with thick evergreen forest, make this not only the largest spa and bathhouse in Scandinavia, but also the best. It’s perversely nice.

Address

Kongeveien 65, 1412 Sofiemyr


thingstodo

Salt

Don’t fancy schlepping to The Well? Try SALT, a sauna and artspace opened by a wilderness-loving northern Norwegian in Oslo’s inner-city harbour. Set opposite the Snohetta-designed opera house, it hosts concerts, plays and exhibitions in a giant sauna that can fit hundreds of people, with lots of smaller saunas scattered along the water too. Of course, there’s a great bar and café.

Address

Langkaia, 0150 Oslo

EAT & DRINK


restaurant

Tunco

This is a restaurant with a really great initiative. André Evju
came home from his travels with an idea to seize the affluent
Norwegian appetite and put something back into the communities to
which he grew close while in Africa. A snug and inviting noodle bar
with a succinct menu and bottles of local craft beers, it feeds a
child in need for every meal bought. We love the Frogner outpost,
but there are locations in St Hanshaugen and at Oslo Street
Food
too.

Address

Skovveien 3, 0257


bar

Himkok

Local brews and botanical cocktails can be found at Himkok, which has its own gin, vodka and aquavit distillery so you can expect a stellar G&T. Everything it makes is produced through sustainable and empirical production. Like this? Try Bar Robinet, a vintage-themed dive bar with excellent sips, music and staff. You’ll often find touring bands taking a post-gig tipple here.

Address

Storgata 27, 0184


restaurant

Fuglen

Oslo, Norway

Fuglen (or “the bird”) is a
coffee-shop-cum-vintage-store-cum-cocktail-joint that opened in
1963 and has consistently supported local small businesses and
artisans of every flavour since. The 60s Scandi interior alone is a
charm.

Address

Universitetsgata 2
0164


restaurant

Kolonihagen

This Frogner restaurant is another must-visit for its industrial-meets-flower-shed vibes. It grows its own veggies and herbs on site, produces lots of its own tonics, and hunts and forages for its ever-changing impressive seasonal menu.

Address

Frognerveien 33, 0263


restaurant

Kontrast

This Michelin-starred restaurant is a good alternative to the
much-hyped, Noma-like Maaemo. Against a semi-industrial backrop of exposed
pipework and concrete floors, it serves dishes that showcase
Norway’s bounty of organic, ethically sourced produce at the peak
of its season. We recommend the 10-course tasting menu.

Address

Maridalsveien 15a, 0175


restaurant

Bokbacka

Inspired by the Japanese omakase concept, this pocket-sized, fine-dining food bar in Frogner draws diners with its small rotation of dishes that change with the microseasons – think: summer tartlets with lumpfish roe; pork from Stølsvidda; blueberries with spruce milk. Snag a seat that overlooks the open kitchen.

Address

Skovveien 15, 0257


restaurant

Rest

Rest is perhaps Olso’s best restaurant in terms of eco credentials. Staying true to its “waste not, want not” motto, it transforms food waste into a fine-dining experience. Set menus make use of every scrap and wonky piece of produce – note that no vegan or vegetarian options are available.

Address

Kirkegata 1-3, 0153

Discover More
How to Live Like a Scandi: Beauty and Grooming