Look after look he brought together contrasting textures and
styles that created a complex dynamic and added an air of coolness
to the brand’s identity. While in previous seasons the brand has
established its timeless sophistication and chicness, this
collection felt more current thanks to cropped babydoll sweaters
paired with fishnet skirts and sleeveless summer dresses with fur
vests. That’s not to say it was too trendy or young; the designer
struck a balance.

We sat down with Altuzarra after the show to talk about his
background, thoughts on fashion, and the relationship between
sexiness and female empowerment.

Why did you decide to leave NYFW and move your show to
PFW?

It was very much a personal decision for me. I was born and
raised in Paris, and while my mother is Chinese-American, I feel as
French as I am American. We founded the company in
New York in 2008, but showing in Paris one day had always been
something that I had been thinking about; this season it felt like
the timing was right.

Our last issue focused on homelands and the variety of places
we call home. Do both Paris and New York feel like home to
you?

Yes, definitely. Paris is where I was born and grew up – I
associate the city with a lot of my childhood memories. I moved to
New York after college and that’s where I fell in love, started my
business and got married. So I definitely connect to the cities
differently, though both very personally.

How would you describe the difference in French and American
fashion aesthetics? How are you inspired by each?

Through the French lens, I think there is a certain sense of
sexiness and seductiveness that is both nonchalant and effortless.
It’s quite specific – this idea of “bobo” (bon chic bon genre) very
much resonates with the neighbourhood in which I grew up. In terms
of American, I find inspiration in a lot of classical workwear and
motifs, whether it’s the button-down shirt, the shearling coat or
the cowboy’s bull rope (the starting point for the Ghianda handbag
collection).

What is your opinion on the creative scene in New York at the
moment?

It’s exciting. With the new crop of designers who are embracing
uniqueness and individuality, building their brands through social
media – from Gypsy Sport and Telfar to Brandon Maxwell.

How did winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund change your
trajectory?

It was definitely a humbling experience – winning the CVFF Award
was amazing in terms of the mentorship and industry support we
received.

You talk a lot about sexiness. How does that relate to female
empowerment?

I find a woman most sexy when she is confident and sure of who
she is; her identity and her sexuality.

How do you understand fashion as a business versus fashion as
an art?

Fashion is a business, but one that evokes emotion and
feeling.

Can you explain the inspiration behind your SS18
collection?

I looked to Hayao Miyazaki’s animated film Princess Mononoke and
its theme of nature versus industry. The film centres around the
conflict between the Gods of the Forest and the humans who consume
its resources. This narrative and the rich, fantasy-laced world in
which the story takes place was the starting point for the
collection. It inspired an exploration of home knitting and sewing,
of the handmade and the homemade, of the imperfect and the undone,
of pagan rituals as documented by Charles Freger in his Wilder Mann
series and of fantasy
and dreams. At its core, this collection is about loss of
innocence, growing up and embracing fearlessness.

What is your opinion on making shows theatrical?

I truly feel that every brand should do what feels right for
them and their business.

How do you think Paris as a backdrop will change the reception
of your collection?

It will be very interesting to see!

How will you wind down after fashion week?

I will have dinner with my closest family and friends.

Making

Making
his
Paris Fashion Week debut, Joseph Altuzarra showcased a captivating SS18
collection that spoke to his varied sources of inspiration,
embodied his homecoming and highlighted his growth as a
designer.

Prior to the show, guests received an invitation with a
childhood picture of Altuzarra in Paris that set the stage
before complimentary show notes furthered the conversation. In
addition to creating a collection that iterated Altuzarra’s
American and French background, the designer added an additional
layer to the story for which he drew inspiration from a Japanese
anime film. With such diverse influences, it would be easy for the
collection to feel disconnected, but this is not the case;
Altuzarra pulled it off seamlessly.