With

With
more than 7,100 islands (depending on the tide), the Philippines is the kind of place where it’s easy
for outsiders to assume that isolation comes naturally. Over the
course of the pandemic, its capital, Manila, along with a handful
of provinces, have been subject to one of the world’s longest and
strictest lockdowns – measures which have left many stranded on
nearby islands.

As the northern hemisphere gears up for a cold and isolated
winter, we chat to three creatives who have spent the last six or
so months locked down, surrounded by white-sand beaches and the
rhythmic crashing of waves. They share with us the highs and lows
of being locked down in a proverbial paradise, and reveal if it
really is as good as it sounds on paper.

Summer Puertollano, Surfer and Founder of Para Sa Diwà

Siargao

Once a sleepy surfing enclave, Siargao has recently become a
much-hyped destination among locals and visitors. Since lockdown
began, multi-hyphenate Summer Puertollano – a
surfer-cum-photographer-cum-creative – has spent 300 days on the
island. “I got on the last plane available,” she says. “There was
no way I was getting stuck in the city.”

A 300-day spell in Siargao may sound like a dream for most, but
for Summer, it wasn’t all piña coladas and perfect waves. “The
worst part was that it was illegal to surf during those first few
months. Those who rebelled were reprimanded by the coastguard and
had their surfboards confiscated.”

“I got to see the other side of paradise,” she adds. “The
reality of people living on basic daily wages and struggling to
feed their families. That said, seeing that sad reality helped me
create bonds with new people. I also started volunteering at the
Siargao Community Kitchen.”

Summer recounts how some people on the island suffered from
anxiety, boredom and money issues. “Everyone here has found ways to
survive,” she continues. “Being part of a community is essential.
What we see on social media about paradise is not always true.
There are many issues that never make it online.”

Summer’s extended stay in Siargao gave her the time to explore a
number of creative pursuits. “I developed my baking skills and sold
my creations at a local café. I also worked on my art, writing and
photography and took on some projects that pushed me creatively.
All of this while still making and developing products for my
body-care brand, Para Sa Diwà.”

In the meantime, Summer has collected some great local food
recommendations, including Coco Frio for after-surf hydration, Siargao
Curry Club (the garlic naan here is exceptional, she says) and
Soyah Siargao for great taho, a sweet, Filipino
comfort food of silken tofu, sago pearls and syrup.

“CEV, which is known for its kinilaw (a Filipino
variation of ceviche), began serving sandwiches during lockdown,
while Wabi Swabi and Kurvada Siargao are excellent for vegan fare,” she
adds. “Balai Uno serves homemade Filipino dishes that remind
me of my grandmother’s cooking and, on rainy island mornings,
The Beachbaby Café is my spot of choice for a
chai latte and a stack of pancakes.”

Tarish Zamora, Photographer and Surfer

La Union, Luzon

At a glance, San Juan, La Union may just seem like one stretch
of road embracing the gentle coastline of the Ilocos province. On
closer inspection, however, reveals a tight-knit surfing community
as well as much scope for exploration.

This community became food photographer and surfer Tarish Zamora‘s
new home over the past seven months, her retreat from pandemic
blues. “The best part for me was that I was near the ocean. Even if
we weren’t allowed to surf, I was in nature,” Tarish says.

“I was staying in a house up in the mountains that had a great
view of the sunset. That helped me breathe a lot. It was easier for
me to calm my mind when the anxiety started to hit. The worst thing
about it was that I couldn’t see my family.”

Still, island life came with its own sets of challenges. “To be
honest, we also had our fair share of struggles in La Union,” she
says. “It wasn’t easy to get supplies and we didn’t really have any
food delivery services on the island.”

“We had to cook all of our meals at home and get different
people to do our groceries as we couldn’t access shops of the
barangay [the local municipality].”

For Tarish, an stay in La Union proved that even the most
familiar places can reveal something new if you know where to look.
“Thai restaurant Sawadeeka and Sabong
Fried Chicken kept me fed in lockdown, as did the smoothie
bowls at Seabuds” she says. “Clean Beach and El Union
satisfied my coffee cravings and proved excellent spots to chill
out.”

Despite the logistical challenges, Tarish wouldn’t swap her
island paradise for the city any time soon. “I would rather stay in
La Union and be surrounded by nature than be locked down in the
city any day.”

Dane Gonzales, Social Media Consultant and Founder of Tala the
Label and Paradis Swimwear

Boracay

Boracay regularly tops the list for the world’s best beaches,
but for Dane Gonzales, founder and owner of ethical-fashion brands
Tala the Label and Paradis Swimwear, it’s the island she now calls
home. When the Philippines went into lockdown, Dane jumped through
countless bureaucratic hoops to get back to her little slice of
paradise. “I was actually in Bali when the crisis hit and I was
forced to travel back to the Philippines mid-pandemic,” she
recounts. “Just days before I left Bali, Manila went into total
lockdown and I was stuck in Metro Manila quarantining for two
weeks, before self-isolating in Boracay for 14 days.”

“I think being locked down on an island is just a little
healthier for the soul,” Dane adds. “You can see the sun outside
your window and the energy is lighter and brighter. Being stuck in
Manila was awful because even on the hottest days, the sun doesn’t
seem to shine. You’re surrounded by cold structures and grey
buildings. As soon as I landed in Boracay, I felt better, even with
the 14-day quarantine ahead.”

A popular South-East Asian tourist spot, Boracay is often packed
with visitors in summer months. Lockdown, however, has given the
island a chance to pause, and allowed Dane to rekindle her love for
local haunts. “My usual spot, just around the corner from my house,
is Levantin Boracay, one of the few beach bars that has
maintained that old Boracay vibe.”

“My neighbour, Lazy Dog Boracay, has an amazing Filipino menu, while
Nonies Boracay has a really creative vegan menu. Its
owners recently opened Little
Taj Boracay – order curry and paratha if you ever visit; I
survived self-isolation on these. DiniBeach is awesome for music, food and drinks –
especially on Sunday. Valhalla, a local favourite, also reopened its doors
and Banana Bay Boracay on Bolabog Beach serves excellent
fusion cuisine.”

So, was being locked down in paradise all it’s cracked up to be?
According to Dane: “Being locked down sucks, but if you have to be,
it may as well be in paradise!”