Sifnos

Sifnos
is an understated island in the Aegean Sea perfect for
unwinding. One look at its clean and beautiful waters and three
picturesque villages and you’ll want to grab a straw hat and a
sand-covered novel. It also happens to be one of the culinary
centres of the Cyclades, and the birthplace of Greece’s most famous
chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, who in the 1930s wrote the first
official Greek cookbook.

The three main villages – Apollonia, Artemos and Kastro – appear
as clusters of white- washed houses interlinked by rugged valleys,
terraced olive groves, almond trees and oleander bushes. This is
the land that cultivates the ingredients used in so many of the
island’s traditional dishes.

Sifnos was barely on the tourist map until recently, and even
today, it’s a destination more for Greeks than foreign tourists.
One of the things Greeks come to Sifnos to do is eat, and eat well.
Typical dishes include clay pot slow-cooked chickpeas with onions,
wild mutton and briny caper salads, washed down with chilled
glasses of unsophisticated but delicious local wine.

Gaining traction from their traditional Sifnian dishes, the
island is dotted with restaurants that are taking cooking to the
next level, but still using traditional ingredients.

The Perfect Day

Wake up at Elies, a 33-room boutique hotel built right on
the beach in Vathi bay. Throw off your crisp, white linens and open
the blinds. The beach is only a few steps away. Go for a dip and
have a breakfast of bread, local cheese and coffee.

Enjoy the beach at Vathi, or if you’re looking for something
more secluded make your way to Vroulidia beach on the north side of
the island. Sifnos is known for its beautiful waters so make sure
you spend as much time at the beach as possible.

For lunch head to Ω3 on
Platis Gialos for Greek tapas. There will be plenty that you’re
familiar with – like taramasalata or orzo with crayfish – but make
sure you order the seabass ceviche with local cucumber as well as
the smoked mackerel. Knock it back with several glasses of chilled
white wine. Eat your fill and enjoy yourself.

Next head back to the beach for a quick swim or some reading. A
nap under an umbrella is obligatory. Burn off lunch when you wake
up with some volleyball or paddle ball.

After a long shower go to Isalos – a bar and restaurant on the
beach – where you can drink a sunset cocktail. Eat a casual dinner
at Lebesis Tavern, order the chickpeas, caper salad and mastelo
cheese. Then go to Apollonia village for drinks – try the tiny bar
called Adiexodo first and then make your way through the rest of
them before you climb back into bed and sleep your fill.

To Stay

Elies, Verina.

To Eat

Ω3, Mamma Mia, Isalos, Lebesis Tavern, Iliovasilima at
Troulaki and Psaros at Lychnos for fish.

Best Beaches

Vathi, Platis Gialos for the social scene or Vroulidia for
seclusion.

Alternative Activity

Hiking.

Great Escape

Book a local cooking class.

How to Get There

Again there is no airport on the island, but it’s around a
three- hour ferry ride from Piraeus, Athens.

How to Get Around

Rent a car or a motorcycle.

What to Pack

Something that stretches – a maxi dress or loose linen
trousers.