To Market, to Market: Naples

To Market, to Market: Naples



The
first place I visit in
Naples
is Mercato di Porta Nolana, a stone’s throw from Piazza
Garibaldi. I like soaking up the colours, flavours and noises of a
city, so markets are usually my first port of call. I watch the
locals go about their life, interested to see what they buy and
talk about.

Porta Nolana is a pedestrian market overflowing with local
produce, particularly seafood, which spans everything from mussels
and clams to lobster, octopus, mantis shrimp and sea urchins. The
vendors are incredibly friendly, which might have something to do
with the fact that I’m a blonde foreigner who speaks Italian and
wants to take their picture. I have numerous exchanges, get several
invitations to dinner and pose for a couple of selfies with local
fishermen.

My next stop is Mercato Pignasecca. On my way I meet Carmine, a
Neapolitan whose family has owned a small fish shop in the city for
over 50 years, which he now runs with his nephews. He claims to
sell the freshest seafood in Naples and numerous customers who stop
by during my visit agree. Carmine recommends Trattoria da Concetta
for dinner, which was opened recently by another of his nephews.
They specialise in seafood and, needless to say, Carmine’s
Pescheria Sasà is their supplier.

La Pignasecca has the atmosphere of a relaxed small town market.
Nobody seems to be in a hurry; people take time to choose the best
fruit and chat to stallholders. Some decide to take a break from
their grocery shopping to enjoy fried sardines or crispy arancini
washed down with a cold bottle of Peroni. The more adventurous
plump for tripe seasoned with lemon and salt from Tripperia
Fiorenzano. I wasn’t brave enough to try it, but it’s given me yet
another reason to go back.

@dinedashcom | karolina-wiercigroch.com

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