Where to Eat in Montmartre, Paris

A typical Parisian bistro run by a Corsican, a Hellenic-infused hotspot and a fresh new opening that’s obsessed with serving the best olive oil on the continent: Montmartre’s restaurant offering is on the up

The French capital might be known for its haute cuisine, legendary bistros and obsession with sauces, but the Parisians we know are increasingly eschewing white-tableclothed dining destinations for low-key dinner dates in relaxed neighbourhood restaurants serving everything from bright Mediterranean menus to playful sharing plates. Cheap, traditional bouillons are back, too - our favourite in the area is Bouillon Pigalle. Here are three other Montmartre restaurants we're making tracks to.

A cauliflower and pomegranate dish


Étsi - Le Bistro

You'll want to book ahead to secure a table at this super-popular local spot run by Mikaela Liaroutsos, a young chef of Greek origin. It's just been awarded Bib Gourmand designation, but Parisians were stopping by long before the Michelin man showed his face. The menu, consisting of smaller sharing plates, puts the focus on exquisite Hellenic ingredients like feta, olives and roasted veggies accompanied by traditional breads and pastries. If you can't get a table here, head over to étsi's recently opened second outpost, also in the 18th arrondissement, on Rue du Ruisseau.


23 Rue Eugène Carrière, 75018

A variety of dishes at Doublievie
Photo credit: Geraldine Martens



Set in a bright, airy, three-storey building in the Château Rouge/Goutte d'Or neighbourhood, the 2022-opened Doublevie is a great place for a night out with a group, thanks to the enticing selection of sharing plates served from the open kitchen and the restaurant's retro-party playlist. The Mediterranean-influenced menu is geniusly built around different artisanal olive oils from across Europe, each represented on the menu with a different symbol. Our order? The honey-doused saganaki cheese, and decadent stuffed aubergine.


2 Rue Poulet, 75018

The awning-covered front of Chez Val restaurant, Montmartre


Chez Val

Small but perfectly formed, this hip but hearty, teeny-weeny bistro is located behind the hill of Montmartre in the village-y Lamarck/Jules Joffrin neighbourhood. The eponymous Val is Corsican by birth and Parisian by adoption. In tandem with her chef, she serves up a changing seasonal menu of tasty delights, like grilled sardines and oeuf cocotte (baked eggs), plus excellent desserts. A small selection of natural wines finishes the offering.


57 Rue Montcalm, 75018

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