If

If
you’ve ever found yourself trawling east
London‘s streets for a late-night tipple, you’ve probably come
across Doña – Thea Cumming
and Lucia Massey’s hot-pink, female-led basement bar dishing out
punchy live music and even punchier mezcal cocktails – on Stoke
Newington’s storied High Street.

As the co-owner of a mezcal bar and the founder of her own
premium mezcal brand – Dangerous Don – Thea knows her
tacos from her burritos, having spent months in Mexico
travelling between the country’s famed independent distilleries
while setting up her businesses. She now spends most of her time in
Oaxaca,
which is why we asked her to walk us through her perfect day in the
city, shine a light on her favourite street-food markets and let us
in on what not to miss in town.

All photography by Anna Bruce.

Mezcal, margaritas and mole: a pocket guide to Oaxaca

Describe Oaxaca’s vibe in three words…

Colourful, culinary, community.

When’s the best time to visit?

From November to March.

Describe a perfect day in Oaxaca.

Wake up in your own time, grab chilaquiles (fried corn
tortillas) for breakfast, then head out for a stroll around the
local markets, print shops and galleries. Stop off for a coffee or
even an early-afternoon mezcal before a little snooze, then pop
back out for mole (a marinated traditional Mexican dish) and
mezcal, followed by a night of dancing. Round it all off with a
late-night tlayuda (toasted tortilla topped with refried
beans).

Where can we catch the best sunset views in the city?

Getting up on a rooftop, such as that of Hotel Los Amantes, is
probably the best way to catch sunset in the city. The hotel’s
restaurant and cocktail bar overlooks Santo Domingo Church, which
is stunning. I’d also recommend visiting the church just before
sunset to catch the light passing through the Rose Window, which
illuminates the gold interior like a jewellery box. It’s
magical.

It’s Saturday night in Oaxaca. Where should we head for
mezcal?

Start out at La Popular or La Otra for good mezcal and great
people. La Popular used to be the mainstay of local artists, but
since it caught the eye of tourists, you’ll find the locals in La
Otra.

If you want a mezcal tasting, Mezcalogia or In Situ are my
all-time favourites. They both have a really great selection.

If you’re hankering after a cocktail, make a beeline for Sabina
Sabe, whose chilli, hibiscus and mezcal concoction is a must-try,
or Casa Oaxaca, for something a little on the fancier side.

To dance?

Txalaparta is a good-time cumbia joint, where old dance classics
will keep you dancing late into the night. Convivio often has live
music followed by DJs – a creative co-op space by day, it’s popular
with the expat community and local creatives. If you want more
contemporary dance music, Club Creciente is the place, but you
might need to get on a list for entry.

We’re hungover. Where shall we go for a long, lazy brunch?

Boulenc is a beautiful space with great food, but the wait to
get in can be ridiculous – I’d recommend Chepiche Café as a
peaceful place to relax and hang out instead. Getting a bubbling
hot dish of chilaquiles from Fonda Rosita in Mercado de la Merced,
teamed with micheladas (a spicy, Bloody Mary-like drink), is also
an awesome way to work through a hangover. I’d recommend the green
chilaquiles (extra spicy) topped with fried eggs and chorizo.

Where’s the best street food in town?

You’ll find some great street-style food in the markets, but
it’s an overwhelming experience if you’re not used to the hustle.
Anthony Bourdain famously recommended the barbecue tunnel at the
Benito Juarez Market, where you pass grills cooking tasajo
(marinated beef or goat), cecina (salt-dried meat) and chorizo. You
can choose your cuts and have it served up on a platter with
tortillas, onions and cactus. He less famously recommended the
street burgers, which are perfect after a big dance at Txalaparta.
There’s a great stand just outside Santo Domingo Church.

In front of Carmen Alto Church there are some great quesadillas
– the vendors have been making the same thing in the same spot for
decades and the simple dishes they serve up never disappoint.
Finally, don’t miss super-tasty tacos de lechón on Calle de Los
Libres.

One thing we shouldn’t miss while we’re in town?

Oaxaca has a wonderful art scene. Check out the Museum of
Oaxacan Painters (MUPO), Museum of Contemporary Art (MAKO), the
photography gallery Manuel Álvares Bravo and the Graphic Arts
Institute (IAGO). Browsing the many independent print shops is also
a great way to connect with local people and pick up some great
artworks.

The botanical gardens are amazing, too. There’s a greater
diversity of botanicals in Oaxaca state alone than in the whole of
Europe, so the gardens are truly magical.

Suggestions for day trips?

Definitely a day out to mezcal country. Go with a guide to get
the most out of the experience, and visit some off-the-beaten-path
palenques (mezcal distilleries). Rambling Spirits is a fun, young
operator offering this kind of trip, and it always goes the extra
mile to find hidden places. Heading out with a guide can also help
you gain access to beautiful villages, including Teotitlán del
Valle, which is famed for its natural dyes and weaving
tradition.

In general, you can get out of the city using public buses or
collectivos (shared taxis). Main stops include the ruins of Monte
Albán and the markets at Tlacolula and Ocotlán.

Finally, what should we pack in our SUITCASE?

Not very much! Save some space so you can take home a couple of
bottles of mezcal and locally produced artisanal goods from the
markets. A good pair of walking boots for distillery visits and a
warm jumper for colder nights are essential. Don’t forget your
camera – Oaxaca’s sensory overload is a photographer’s dream.