Folded

Folded
away within the high cobbled streets of the hip Bairro
Alto district, The Lumiares Hotel & Spa is a boutique hotel we’ve
bookmarked for a stylish apartment-style stay in one the city’s
oldest and funnest parts of town. Add two restaurants, a rooftop
bar, ground-floor spa and impeccable service into the mix, and this
graceful Lisboan property sits well apart from the rest of the
aparthotel crowd. Make this your base for an independent,
home-away-from-home stay, with the added luxuries of a smart
hotel.

From the outside, The Lumiares’ beginnings as the home of a
count in the 18th century are clear from its tall and elegant
facade, but step inside and you’ll be met with a wave of clever
contemporary details – think striking monochrome-tiled floors and a
colourful woven triptych that hangs from a wall in the lobby. It’s
this dance between local, traditional style and top-notch mod cons
that will make you remember the hotel long after you’ve left, and
it’s what really hooked us on our stay.

Rooms

Hyper-convenient (there’s a Nespresso coffee machine, Smeg mini
fridge, induction hob, microwave and toaster in every apartment)
yet sensitively styled, each of the hotel’s 53 apartment-style
rooms falls into one of five categories: Studio, One-Bedroom Suite,
Bairro Alto Mezzanine Suite, Two-Bedroom Suite and Penthouse.

Rooms offer a palette of fresh whites, with bright, airy French
windows that open out to the bustling streets below (although
triple-glazing ensures you won’t hear a thing when the volume dials
up at night). Subtle nods to traditional Portuguese craftsmanship
exist throughout the spaces, too: think hand-spun textiles made by
Alentejan craftsmen and bespoke urban artworks from local
artisans.

What’s for breakfast?

There’s an à la carte breakfast menu served between 7.30am and
10.30am at Lumi, the hotel’s rooftop restaurant. Choose from
classics such as avocado toast, eggs or fresh fruit and yoghurt, or
opt for chicken empanadas for something a little out of the
ordinary.

How about lunch or dinner?

If you fancy trying your hand at cooking up Portuguese fare for
yourself, stay in and make use of your well-stocked kitchen for an
in-room feast. Prefer to leave your meals up to the experts? Skip
up to rooftop Lumi for killer views and superlative cuisine from
star chef João Silva (all whipped up using hyper-fresh, seasonal
and authentic Portuguese produce). Make sure to book ahead, though:
the restaurant is open to the public, and you won’t automatically
get first dibs as a hotel guest.

Is there a bar?

There is – it’s on the roof – and there’s a pleasingly long
cocktail menu.

How about amenities?

Head down to the basement and you’ll forget you’re in the middle
of Lisbon, thanks to the hotel’s blissed-out,
white-brick underground spa. Book in for a beauty preen (a
manicure, pedicure, waxing or facial), or unfurl knotted limbs with
a tailored massage – choose from a line-up of 14 different
styles.

There’s also a 24/7 high-tech gym offering personal training
next door, just in case Lisbon’s seven hills haven’t already worn
you out.

What are the hotel’s eco-credentials like?

There’s a firm focus on local, seasonal produce in the kitchen,
and this priority towards local goods runs into the bedrooms, too,
with hand-crafted textiles from Portuguese artisans in all 53
rooms. There’s also a clear drive to reduce waste throughout,
evident through small touches like a “no card, no clean” policy for
towels and linen.

What about accessibility?

There aren’t any rooms on the ground floor, but an accessible
lift will whizz you up and down to where you need to be.

What’s the crowd like?

Cool, but not uncomfortably so. Insta-snappers congregate at the
rooftop restaurant, and who could blame them when the views are
this spectacular.

Within a short walk I can find…

You’re right in the nerve centre of Lisbon in Bairro Alto. Step
out from the hotel and you’ll be surrounded by Principe Real’s
achingly trendy bars, boutiques and restaurants. If it’s food you’re after, take a
10-minute stroll towards the river and you’ll find Time Out
Market, a heaving warehouse of delicious food stalls in the
Cais do Sodre neighbourhood. Finally – and if you’re not short on
time – don’t miss the truly Lisboan experience of rattling around
the city by tram: the number 28 tram stop is a couple of minutes
from the hotel.

Things I should know…

Friday and Saturday nights in Bairro Alto can be lively – we’d
recommend either keeping your windows closed (did we mention
they’re triple-glazed?) for a quiet night’s sleep, or heading out
and joining the party.