A café dedicated to cheesecake, run by a woman called Madame Cheeselova. The slices are homemade, colossal and delicious.

The latest offering from hyped chef Jose Avillez and the most exciting to date. Table are set all around a leafy indoor square balcony overlooking another one of his spots, inducing a feeling of floating elevation – like you’re sitting pretty in a hanging basket and are outside. Ambient lighting twinkles and pisco sours flow before you enjoy an innovative menu that takes all cross cultures of Peruvian settlers and combines cuisines, according to ‘six worlds’ (raw cold, red hot coals, fried, Andean, wok and sweet) meaning you’ll see some Asian influence and some BBQ. Try the classic tiger’s milk white ceviche, the barbeque pork rice, and the tempura fritters.

If Sweeney Todd came back to life, moved to Lisbon and decided to open a pizzeria, it would probably look a lot like A Mesa. An old leather barber’s chair greets you at the entrance, the walls are wood-panelled and the floor is stony. Happily, the comparison stops there. A Mesa is all about communal tables and great pizza. Their signatures slices are piled with locally sourced, punchy toppings like shrimp, Portuguese sausage and sesame seeds.

Lisbon has just started to find its feet when it comes to good coffee. While jet-black, bitter espresso can be found on every corner, a really good cup of coffee can be hard to come by. Nordic vibes abound in this bright, simple coffee shop. Bed down with a pot of French press or Chemex (those slinky glass jars that seem to have taken over the shelves in London) and sample some of Wish’s high quality coffees with their simple, locally sourced lunch dishes and tapas.

By day, this spacious, graffitied space offers the best in casual lunches. Their tostas (sandwiches) salads and crêpes are named after the world’s most beloved musicians. According to this menu, Jimi Hendrix prefers guacamole, bacon and cheddar, while Jim Morrison likes a bit of whiskey-marinated pork and onion. By night, the room is cleared for loud live music and strong drinks.

Perch yourself at one of the communal tables underneath the bridge for beers or cocktails at this local hangout. The building itself is charmingly incongruous – a little white standalone cottage selling small brunches, pastries and Portuguese tapas.

It might not be on an actual rooftop, but it fills all the other prerequisite – it’s up high atop a steep hill (a challenge to walk down tipsy, by the way), there’s plenty of sunshine to be had on the astro-turfed patio and tanned waiters will bring you endless cocktails. Best of all, once you’ve enough mojitos, you can head inside for dinner in the quirky restaurant.

Don’t be put off by the all-gin-everything vibe; this restaurant is the new sister spin off of a specialist bar and distillery set in the iconic Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, a XIX century new-Arabian Palace turned shopping and cocktail bazaar. The restaurant is located in the ornate, high ceilinged main hall and offers an unusual gin-paired a la carte that includes smoked gins along with lots of fish, duck and a strong focus on herbs. Try the basil risotto and scallops with a home-distilled gin basil smash.

Family-run and usually busy, this tiny establishment is situated down an unassuming alley in the Mouraria neighbourhood and serves the best Goan food in Lisbon. Book ahead and enjoy delights such as crab curry and pork vindaloo.

Many of the best places to visit are associações, thanks to their innovative, all-inclusive approach. Hidden behind an inconspicuous steel doorway is one such in-the-know gem, the People’s Kitchen. Chefs and volunteers serve up the riches of Angola, Cabo Verde and Brazil among delightfully relaxed and kitsch settings for as little as €5 a meal. Ask about their involvement with Muita Fruta, an exciting project that’s combining tech and volunteer work to farm Lisbon’s fruit trees with juicy results

An acclaimed and incredibly friendly restaurant serving up satisfyingly spicy and inventive dishes from Mozambique, run by lifelong Mouraria residents. If you are won over by Cantinho do Aziz, like many high profile guests before you, they also have outlets in Leeds and Miami.

O Corvo (the crow) is the protector of Lisbon and here you can feel right at home among a (surprisingly stylish) crow-themed setting that spills out into a beautiful azulejo-covered courtyard. Indulge in adapted Portuguese dishes, homemade focaccia and hefty brunches, washed down with aguardente bagaçeira (a local spirit made from pomace) cocktails.

This fado restaurant is possibly the most historically significant in Lisbon. The building was previously the famous brothel in which Maria Severa worked until her lover, the Count of Vimioso, purchased it for her to live in. Now you can eat dinner and listen to some of the city’s best fadistas, or drop in after dinner service to enjoy the music.

Many of the best places to visit are associações, thanks to their innovative, all-inclusive approach. Hidden behind an inconspicuous steel doorway is one such in-the-know gem, the People’s Kitchen. Chefs and volunteers serve up the riches of Angola, Cabo Verde and Brazil among delightfully relaxed and kitsch settings for as little as €5 a meal. Ask about their involvement with Muita Fruta, an exciting project that’s combining tech and volunteer work to farm Lisbon’s fruit trees with juicy results.

An acclaimed and incredibly friendly restaurant serving up satisfyingly spicy and inventive dishes from Mozambique, run by lifelong Mouraria residents. If you are won over by Cantinho do Aziz, like many high profile guests before you, they also have outlets in Leeds and Miami.

Located in the Culture Centre of Belém, the menu here is divided into “west” (featuring European dishes with an emphasis on Italy) “east” (largely focusing on Japan) and “fusion”, an imaginative global combining. But it’s the padella este oeste – sea soup with udon noodles cooked in a wood-fired oven – that really stands out as here. Simply incredible.

Okay, so this one is in rather a lot of guidebooks – but with good reason. It does divine fish and has a beautiful view, but most importantly, they serve a delight that roughly translates as “seafood in bread soup with garlic”. You need to order it to understand.

In the neighbourhood of Alvalade are some of the most typical Portuguese restaurants and patisseries that are well worth a look-in. But what brings us to Salsa e Coentros time and time again is the partridge empanada with turnip rice. While you wait, order the fava beans with coriander.

Whipping up traditional childhood dishes, eating here will leave you feeling like you’ve just been fed by the Portuguese grandmother you (probably) never had. Everything is homemade; we recommend “cozido à Portuguesa” (Portuguese stew) and grouper rice.