holiday to Florence usually involves one of two fantasies.
The first is waking up in the heart of the city, breathing in
Renaissance history as you stroll down narrow cobbled streets
towards the Uffizi Galleries. You weave through horses, cyclists
and market stalls. Lunch is at a delightful trattoria, stumbled
upon by chance. The second fantasy? It probably involves a stay at
a rambling country estate, tucked into the hills of Chianti, behind
vineyards and ancient chestnut trees, miles away from anywhere,
where dinner looks like local wine and hand-rolled tagliatelle al
Staying at Villa La Massa is a rare bridge between these two
visions. It’s having your castagnaccio (chestnut cake) and eating
it. From Florence or Pisa airports, an easy taxi ride will bypass
crowded city roads and take you straight to this quiet and palatial
pad. Perched upstream of Florence on the banks of the River Arno,
the five-star villa has all the assets of an elegant country
resort. It’s close to the residential suburbs of Bagno a Ripoli and
Rimaggio – just 20 minutes from the white sculpted abs of
Michelangelo’s David – but it also has 10 hectares of beautifully
landscaped gardens, uninterrupted river views and offers a sense of
escape amid the hazy Tuscan hills.
The entrance to Villa Noble, left, and the hotel from
Built in the 13th century as a summer retreat for the Medicis,
Florence’s former ruling family, the property is all about luxury
on a Renaissance scale. The palace remained in the hands of local
aristocrats for over 600 years, being gradually added to here and
there, until, in 1948, it was transformed into a luxury hotel. Over
the last few decades, the property’s outhouses, barns and cottages
have all been swept up into its offering. In the gardens (so large
they have their own running routes), well-watered lawns lead down
to an infinity pool (something of a rarity in the tight corners of
The main villa interiors are magnificent, drawing on the
building’s rich history. It’s serious and formal – with a touch of
that elegant gloominess so typical of the historic Florentine
aesthetic. If you’re seeking something lighter, head to the
refurbished outhouses for brighter interiors.
The service nails that old-style European manner, teetering
between attentive and formal, warm but never overly gushy. If you
do wish to leave the bucolic retreat and venture into Florence for
a spot of culture, you need only borrow one of the property’s
elegant Dutch bicycles. And for anyone who doesn’t fancy cycling, a
private shuttle goes every hour to the city centre, too.
The bedroom in Casa Colonica, left, and a sunny terrace
There are 51 guest suites arranged across five buildings, each
with a distinctly different feel drawing on the villa’s original
architecture and atmosphere. Bedrooms in the main house – Villa
Nobile – are traditional, set around a central hall adorned with
fine brocades and antique curios. Expect four-poster canopy beds,
historic furnishings and ornate frescoed ceilings. Elsewhere, rooms
in Villino and Mulino offer something a little lighter and more
modern, while the four suites in Casa Colonica are the biggest and
airiest of the lot, kitted out with Loro Piana fabrics and
spectacular marble bathrooms. The 10 rooms in La Limonaia follow
form, with the added benefit of gardens overlooking the river. All
rooms have free WiFi.
For those travelling with family or a large group of friends,
the Casa Colonica, Villino and La Limonaia sections of the hotel
can also be booked out for private use and there are five further
private villas within the hotel grounds, too.
What’s for breakfast?
A lavish breakfast buffet is laid on every morning, offering all
the cured meats, cheeses, fruit, pastries and “Italian breakfast
cake” one could wish for. Freshly squeezed juices and homemade
bread are especially well done. There’s also an à la carte menu,
offering classics like pancakes and maple syrup (at additional
How about lunch and dinner?
The hotel’s two dining options serve up two very different takes
on typical Italian cuisine. For lunch (in flip-flops and a kaftan),
poolside L’Oliveto bistro nails the clubhouse vibes, serving simple
salads, pastas, sandwiches and fritto misto until the late
afternoon. Feeling decadent? Make like a Medici noble and have your
spaghetti alle vongole delivered to your sun lounger.
For evening extravagance, head to Il Verrocchio, a
white-tablecloth, shirt-and-jacket affair. This restaurant serves
classic Italian fine-dining dishes, and has an extensive list of
full-bodied wines. Head chef Stefano Ballarino uses seasonal
produce from the kitchen garden and estate. Be sure to try Villa La
Massa’s own olive oil, mopped up with the irresistible
Is there a bar?
Yes. Take a leather seat between sangiovese-red walls and below
original frescoed ceilings at the cosy Medicean Bar. Cocktails are
irreverent, and there’s a large selection of grappa to try.
Oenophiles should ask for a tour of the 15th-century wine cellars,
Interior details in the Vilino Suite
Tucked beneath the villa’s main hall, the Arno Spa facilities
are a welcome treat: you’ll find a gym, sauna, Turkish baths, steam
room and more, all hidden in what feels like a Medici vault. Enjoy
skin products from the famous Florentine range of Officina Profumo
– Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (the oldest perfumery in the
world, dating back to 1542, when Caterina de Medici ruled the
What are the hotel’s eco-credentials like?
Nothing special – just the ordinary “no plastic straws”, plus
menus that include herbs and vegetables grown in the kitchen
What about accessibility?
Some of the ground-floor rooms in Limonaia Villa are fully
accessible, as are all public areas, although some routes involve
What’s the crowd like?
You’ll spot guests who return year after year, plus a few
honeymooners and young professionals drawn in by the new pool and
Dinner with a view of the Arno, left, and a courgette dish
at Il Verrocchio
Things I should know
The private shuttle to the city only goes to and from the Ponte
Vecchio, so if you want to go anywhere else in Florence, you’ll
need to arrange a taxi.
Within a short cycle I can find…?
A 6km cycle track follows the river all the way into town. The
journey – taking in grassy banks and Renaissance-era bridges – is
as magical as the destination. If you’re wanting a taste of more
traditional Tuscan cuisine, head to Trattoria Donnini and Tullio a
Montebeni – two rustic local restaurants we loved.
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