Whether Whether it's the familiar crunch of beach pebbles underfoot, the scent of vinegar-splashed fish or the roar of a Pride parade, it's hard to mistake Brighton's impossibly British character. Its reputation as the UK's bright, brash, rainbow-striped seaside destination has been thriving for decades. Writer Brian Behan once referred to the town as "tolerance by the sea" - and it's true that the city seems to epitomise England's cheekier, more outlandish side.

Locals adore their home and work hard to keep its independent spirit alive. Right across Brighton and neighbouring Hove you can mine for second-hand gold, curiosities and antiques along its knotted backstreets, or browse light-flooded shops selling Scandi homeware, local art, utility clothing, high-fashion labels and handmade jewellery in its idiosyncratic neighbourhoods.

While its kaleidoscopic creative scene has long rivalled London, it's only in the fast few years that the city's culinary offerings have cranked up several notches. Not long ago the choice was between battered cod or roast dinners and little else, but Brighton and Hove now offer a host of critically acclaimed restaurants.

There's good coffee at every turn, artisanal bakeries, tasting menus, converted warehouses serving seasonal plates and natural wine, street eats and, unsurprisingly, some of the best seafood in the country. Young, ambitious chefs are making use of the abundant produce in the surrounding countryside and sea.

Brighton may be going from strength to stylish strength; but its unmistakable personality burns brighter than ever, and the residents wouldn't have it any other way.