Stockholm Stockholm is ever changing, ever evolving - that's what makes this capital city tick. Set over 14 islands, the surrounding water provides a sense of calm while the architecture breeds a sense of wonder. Recently branding itself as "the open city", the Nordic capital isn't as heart on its sleeve as you might expect. It can be difficult to get under the skin of the place and its citizens, but those who persevere will be rewarded with a diverse food scene, interesting nightlife and a surprising number of subcultures to explore.

Very much a seasonal city, some places are only open in the winter or the summer - and in some cases change their name and design every other month. In summer, as the sun stays beaming in the sky well throughout the night, the terraces of the city come alive with postcard-worthy views and sounds of electronic, pop, rock, soul and hip hop bellow out onto the streets. In the winter the city turns inward, with cosy bars, soul-warming restaurants and hour-long fika (cake) sessions. It's easy to try and categorise the different neighbourhoods into exclusive Stureplan or hipster Södermalm, but with so many places to explore and a constant reimagining of spaces, it's really much more complex than that.

Plan more than a few days to get a true taste of Stockholm - it's not a place that you'll conquer in 48 hours - and prepare to have any preconceptions of this future-conscious city turned upside down.