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Kaikaro
Stroll between the chaya houses in the Higashi Chaya district to find this functioning teahouse, first built in 1820. Pay attention to the lattice-laced windows, red lacquered stairway and hanging scrolls decorated with dramatic ink paintings – all features of a typical chaya house. Stop by the glimmering Golden Tea Room where the sheen comes from the tatami mats woven with gold. Gather around a sunken hearth to pair cupfuls of matcha with sweet treats – pick between homemade kuzukiri (jellied kudzu starch) served with sheets of gold leaf; sweet azuki-bean soup; shiratama dumplings plumped from rice powder sprinkled with gold. Not a dairy drinker? Hold the milk; take your tipple laced with gold instead.
Come evening, Kaikaro is typically off-limits as it practices the custom of ichigensan okotowari, meaning “to refuse first-time customers”. That being said, check Kaikaro’s events calendar when you visit.