Five Unmissable Foodie Experiences in Geneva

From chocolatiers to winemakers, and possibly the prettiest farmers’ market on the planet, multicultural Geneva is a delight for culinarily curious travellers

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Geneva is all about the good life. Perched on the southern lip of Lake Geneva, surrounded by the Alps and Jura mountains, this is an affluent, influential, international city; a city that loves to eat, and a city that happily supports chefs, entrepreneurs, producers and makers with a bright new idea… or even an old idea, improved upon. Over the decades, French-speaking but globally-minded Geneva's curious and generous spirit has fostered one of the most varied culinary scenes on the planet, and for travellers, this means you can expect excellence and excitement at every mealtime.

Eat your way around Switzerland's most multicultural city

Grapes on the vine at Domaine Les Perrierès

Touring Geneva’s vineyards by tuk-tuk

Swiss wine is a highlight of any visit to the country, not least because Switzerland exports virtually no wine, making these bottles of chasselas and merlots a rare limited-edition pleasure only obtainable within Swiss borders. Seek them out on a wine tour around the picturesque town of Peissy by tuk-tuk, driven by Sébastien Roevens of Welo, who runs sustainable wine, street art and history tours of the city. At Domaine Les Perrierès, Frédéric Rochaix, part of the eighth generation of winemakers at this family-run winery, will expertly give you the lowdown on the astonishing variety of wines on offer, which includes pinot noirs, chardonnays, merlots and gamays. Don't miss a visit to the deservedly popular local haunt Café de Peney for elevated takes on classic Swiss food such as roast venison, rösti and spätzli (which translates literally as "little sparrows", made from dumpling batter).

Bain des Paquis, Geneva, Switzerland

Fondue at Bain des Pâquis

Life in Geneva doesn't just revolve around eating; it also revolves around the lake. And it's possible to combine these two pleasures in splendid style at Bain des Pâquis, a café, sauna and bathing complex on the western promenade of Lake Geneva that dates back to 1872. Don't be fooled by the no-frills, canteen-like appearance of the café; this is a cherished local institution with a signature fondue dish that many Genevans insist is the best in the city. La Buvette des Bains' fondue au crémant is a divine concoction combining sparkling wine with vacherin cheese, and a little lighter than other fondues, although this is still essentially cheese soup. Alternatively, to really feel like a local, join the pre-work crew for a swim in the lake, a sauna and a bircher muesli washed down with ginger tea.

Farmer's Market in Carouge, Geneva

Perusing the farmers’ market in Carouge

The bohemian, artsy residents of Carouge don't enjoy being informed that they live in Geneva, such is the distinct identity of this Sardinian enclave - despite being just a 20-minute tram ride from Geneva's central station and within the city limits. Carouge was built by the king of Sardinia in the 18th century, and the cosier, humbler French-Italian architectural style stands in marked contrast to Geneva's grand Haussmann-style mansion facades. Carouge is one of the most desirable areas for the city's creatives, with tiny ateliers, bistros and independent fashion boutiques, plus indie cinemas and theatres aplenty. The locale also hosts the city's loveliest farmers' market every Wednesday and Saturday, when fruit and vegetable vendors, pasta makers, cheesemakers and other farmers and producers take over Place du Marché.

G&T at La Distillerie Bar Lab, Geneva

Gin-tasting at La Distillerie Bar Lab

LVX Spirits was born in 2019, the brainchild of Quentin Verne, a young financier who fell in love with gin during his time in London and decided to dedicate himself full time to the gin-distillation process. Today LVX is one of Geneva's best-loved homegrown spirits brands, with a young and growing team. Its official HQ and playground is La Distillerie Bar Lab, where the company combines its boutique gin distillery with a sleek yet friendly bar. Book a workshop and you can experiment with different botanicals to craft your own perfect gin, the team talking you through the gin-making process as you go. Or, leave the task of blending to the experts and instead pull up a chair at the bar to work your way through the gin-based cocktail menu.

Chocolates at Sweetzerland, Geneva

Chocolate-tasting at Sweetzerland

Much like watchmaking, chocolate-making is part of Geneva's DNA. In the 19th century, Geneva was essentially the Silicon Valley of the art form, with various chocolate pioneers - François-Louis Cailler, Phillippe Suchard and Charles-Amédée Kohler - refining the chocolate-making process. Later, Henri Nestlé was to introduce the magic ingredient of creamy Swiss milk to the mix, and Rodolphe Lindt developed a conching machine that evenly distributes cocoa butter in chocolate. In Sweetzerland, Italian-born master chocolatier Elena Esposto will talk you through the history of chocolate-making in the region, before introducing her artisan flavoured truffles and pralines. These organic creations are developed with an international palate in mind, and handcrafted from ethically sourced cocoa from Ecuador, Bolivia, Venezuela, Madagascar, Cameroon and Java. For the truly dedicated chocolate pilgrim, the tourist board's Choco Pass (£28) can be waved in a number of different chocolate ateliers around the city in exchange for a tasting plate, so you can craft your own chocolate crawl around the city.

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The Lowdown

How to Get There

Fly direct from London Heathrow to Geneva Airport with SWISS. From the airport, Geneva city centre is just a 7-minute train journey with Swiss Federal Railways.

The Swiss Travel System covers more than 29,000km with its extensive public transport network of trains, buses, cable cars and boats. Book your tailored Swiss city package and get unlimited travel on public transport with a Swiss Travel Pass at switzerlandtravelcentre.com.


To find out more about Geneva, visit myswitzerland.com

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