The White Isle exerts an almost mystical pull over those who visit in the tranquil winter months, when its high-octane summer diversions are swapped for long beach walks backed by a beckoning indigo sea, off-road adventures immersed in blossom-strewn nature and warming island dishes cooked with care.
17 January, 2022
This article appears in Volume 35: Celebration.
It's winter in Ibiza. The pace of life is slower, more relaxed than a few weeks ago. It feels more genuine, somehow. And, suddenly, it all becomes clear: this is what really makes Ibiza special. This is the reason why people move here.
"The magic of this island lies in its nature," says Manuel Ehrensperger, founder of Ibiza Hike Station, the private experience company that allows visitors and locals to explore areas they never even knew existed.
It's true that the beauty of the landscape is often overlooked. In a constant state of evolution, its colours and plant life transform with every passing month. Pla de Corona Valley in the north-west, now blanketed in white and orange almond blossom, is like something out of a fairy tale.
The beaches in the north, no longer brimming with holidaymakers, become serene, calming spaces that instil a sense of ease. Even the sea takes on a new guise. Shades of deep turquoise swell into midnight blue, a waxy aesthetic juxtaposed by the land's jagged burnt-orange cliffs. The ocean is an open, welcoming invitation. Even in winter, it's a balmy 20C, and there's no better way to cool off after a hike.
"Travelling by foot, you discover the best views," says Ehrensperger, whose adventures regularly carry him off-road and off-map. "There's so much to unveil: caves, waterfalls, the underworld… The north is where you'll find the secret forests."
These forests, it turns out, are lush with greenery at this time of year. But they'll look completely different in just a matter of weeks, as the foliage blooms and a fresh rainbow of colours erupts from the branches.
One trail worth the step-count is the route to Cala d'Albarca, a remote cove not far from Sant Mateu, where, with a hidden plunge pool and spectacular views, you'll feel completely disconnected from the outside world. A kind adventurer has secured ropes to its sides to aid the steep descent.
Perhaps it's down to the season or because the Balearic way of life has been forced to change over the past 18 months, but this sense of community, as well as the homegrown, natural element is prevalent.
Hidden in the hills just outside Ibiza Town is rural bolthole Casa Maca, whose restaurant spotlights seasonal ingredients farmed in its gardens. "Winter brings new recipe opportunities," says Elodie Wright of owners the Mambo Group. "We experiment with produce that thrives at this time of year. During the day we serve food in the farm and by night we light fire pits. It's so tranquil. The 'real' Ibiza is the one in winter mode."
Hotels, too, are in a state of evolution. Anna Na owns luxury boutique space Petunia, one of the properties that has extended its dates to welcome guests throughout the year. Nestled in the hills above Calla Vadella, this quiet haven is peppered with bohemian influences and quiet corners. Its sprawling rooftop terrace is equal parts intimate and sociable.
Read the rest of the feature in Volume 35: Celebration.
