Where to Eat in Nice, France

Discover lantern-lit local restaurants, Michelin-starred seafood and delectable street eats in the Côte d'Azur’s unofficial culinary capital

18 October, 2022

Words by: Grace Lee and Claire Nelson

Vol. 38

Flavour

Croatia • Hong Kong • Beirut • Melbourne • Nice • Oaxaca

Read the full story in Volume 38: Flavour.

A city built for epicures, Nice is a beguiling mix of cacophonous street markets, quiet side-street locales and haute-class fine dining. Kick things off at one of the city's daily food markets, where bountiful baskets of melon-round courgettes (a Nice speciality) and fresh-off-the-boat fish are spread across neon-bright tarpaulin. Pick up street snacks like pissaladière (a pizza-like caramelised onion tart) and tourte de blettes (chard, raisin and pine nut pie) as you go, then settle in for a lunch of small plates at Lavomatique, a much-talked about former laundrette turned contemporary restaurant run by brothers Hugo and Grégoire Loubert. Come the evening, choose from a handful of cosy, family-run restaurants like Chez Davia, or opt for unstuffy Michelin-star fare at neo-bistro Les Agitateurs.

Discover more stories from the Flavour issue here.

restaurant

Chez Davia

Having honed his culinary career in Japan, Pierre Altobelli returned to Nice to run his family’s restaurant, bringing his own contemporary reimagining to Niçoise fare. The menu is driven by seasonal market finds, but might include delicate barbajuans (crispy ravioli), vivid whorls of pesto linguine, and smoked mozzarella with impeccably ripe figs. And if you’re not already a fan of tourte de blettes (Swiss chard tart), Altobelli’s will convert you.

Address

11bis Rue Grimaldi, 06000

+33 4 93 87 91 39 Go to website

restaurant

Lavomatique

A former laundrette holds one of the city’s most talked-about restaurants, albeit charmingly unassuming – the blue exterior retains the price list for a wash and dry. Inside, brothers Hugo and Grégoire Loubert have created an exciting tapas menu paired with a well-considered wine list. If tables are full, try for a seat at the counter and watch the activity in the kitchen. Open Monday to Friday.

Address

11 Rue du Pont Vieux, 06300

+33 4 93 55 54 18 Go to website

restaurant

Les Agitateurs

Three friends – and Michelin alumni – created this neo-bistro restaurant with an aim to deliver unstuffy haute cuisine. Here traditional ingredients play with unusual flavours: smoked pigeon with pine needles, for instance. Lunch is tapas-style (“from the fingertips”), while the dinner menu escorts you on an adventurous tasting journey.

Address

24 Rue Bonaparte, 06300

+33 9 87 33 02 03 Go to website

restaurant

La Merenda

Dominique Le Stanc traded in his two Michelin stars at the Negresco to run this intimate Niçoise spot where the attention is turned to the food before the restaurant. The old-world charm of chalk-board menus, no credit cards, and market produce collected by bicycle is part of the magic, but it’s the dishes – such as courgette flower beignets and tarte de tomate – that stand out.

Address

4 Rue Raoul Bosio, 06300

restaurant

Restaurant Acchiardo

Step into this charming taverna and feel the embrace of the Acchiardo family, who’ve run the place since 1927. Rustic stone walls are hung with photos of the previous generations, while the current siblings warmly greet guests and whisk out plates of regional specialties such as merda de can (Swiss chard gnocchi), and daube, a hearty beef stew.

Address

38 Rue Droite, 06300

+33 4 93 85 51 16