As the founder of a mezcal bar and her own mezcal brand, Thea Cumming knows her tacos from her burritos, having spent months in Mexico travelling between the country’s famed independent distilleries while setting up her businesses. She now spends most of her time in Oaxaca, so we've picked her brains on how to spend a perfect day in the city, the street-food markets not to miss and everything else in between.
14 October, 2021
If you've ever found yourself trawling east London's streets for a late-night tipple, you've probably come across Doña - Thea Cumming and Lucia Massey's hot-pink, female-led basement bar dishing out punchy live music and even punchier mezcal cocktails - on Stoke Newington's storied High Street.
As the co-owner of a mezcal bar and the founder of her own premium mezcal brand - Dangerous Don - Thea knows her tacos from her burritos, having spent months in Mexico travelling between the country's famed independent distilleries while setting up her businesses. She now spends most of her time in Oaxaca, which is why we asked her to walk us through her perfect day in the city, shine a light on her favourite street-food markets and let us in on what not to miss in town.
All photography by Anna Bruce.
Colourful, culinary, community.
From November to March.
Wake up in your own time, grab chilaquiles (fried corn tortillas) for breakfast, then head out for a stroll around the local markets, print shops and galleries. Stop off for a coffee or even an early-afternoon mezcal before a little snooze, then pop back out for mole (a marinated traditional Mexican dish) and mezcal, followed by a night of dancing. Round it all off with a late-night tlayuda (toasted tortilla topped with refried beans).
Getting up on a rooftop, such as that of Hotel Los Amantes, is probably the best way to catch sunset in the city. The hotel's restaurant and cocktail bar overlooks Santo Domingo Church, which is stunning. I'd also recommend visiting the church just before sunset to catch the light passing through the Rose Window, which illuminates the gold interior like a jewellery box. It's magical.
Start out at La Popular or La Otra for good mezcal and great people. La Popular used to be the mainstay of local artists, but since it caught the eye of tourists, you'll find the locals in La Otra.
If you want a mezcal tasting, Mezcalogia or In Situ are my all-time favourites. They both have a really great selection.
If you're hankering after a cocktail, make a beeline for Sabina Sabe, whose chilli, hibiscus and mezcal concoction is a must-try, or Casa Oaxaca, for something a little on the fancier side.
Txalaparta is a good-time cumbia joint, where old dance classics will keep you dancing late into the night. Convivio often has live music followed by DJs - a creative co-op space by day, it's popular with the expat community and local creatives. If you want more contemporary dance music, Club Creciente is the place, but you might need to get on a list for entry.
Boulenc is a beautiful space with great food, but the wait to get in can be ridiculous - I'd recommend Chepiche Café as a peaceful place to relax and hang out instead. Getting a bubbling hot dish of chilaquiles from Fonda Rosita in Mercado de la Merced, teamed with micheladas (a spicy, Bloody Mary-like drink), is also an awesome way to work through a hangover. I'd recommend the green chilaquiles (extra spicy) topped with fried eggs and chorizo.
You'll find some great street-style food in the markets, but it's an overwhelming experience if you're not used to the hustle. Anthony Bourdain famously recommended the barbecue tunnel at the Benito Juarez Market, where you pass grills cooking tasajo (marinated beef or goat), cecina (salt-dried meat) and chorizo. You can choose your cuts and have it served up on a platter with tortillas, onions and cactus. He less famously recommended the street burgers, which are perfect after a big dance at Txalaparta. There's a great stand just outside Santo Domingo Church.
In front of Carmen Alto Church there are some great quesadillas - the vendors have been making the same thing in the same spot for decades and the simple dishes they serve up never disappoint. Finally, don't miss super-tasty tacos de lechón on Calle de Los Libres.
Oaxaca has a wonderful art scene. Check out the Museum of Oaxacan Painters (MUPO), Museum of Contemporary Art (MAKO), the photography gallery Manuel Álvares Bravo and the Graphic Arts Institute (IAGO). Browsing the many independent print shops is also a great way to connect with local people and pick up some great artworks.
The botanical gardens are amazing, too. There's a greater diversity of botanicals in Oaxaca state alone than in the whole of Europe, so the gardens are truly magical.
Definitely a day out to mezcal country. Go with a guide to get the most out of the experience, and visit some off-the-beaten-path palenques (mezcal distilleries). Rambling Spirits is a fun, young operator offering this kind of trip, and it always goes the extra mile to find hidden places. Heading out with a guide can also help you gain access to beautiful villages, including Teotitlán del Valle, which is famed for its natural dyes and weaving tradition.
In general, you can get out of the city using public buses or collectivos (shared taxis). Main stops include the ruins of Monte Albán and the markets at Tlacolula and Ocotlán.
Not very much! Save some space so you can take home a couple of bottles of mezcal and locally produced artisanal goods from the markets. A good pair of walking boots for distillery visits and a warm jumper for colder nights are essential. Don't forget your camera - Oaxaca's sensory overload is a photographer's dream.
