Read the full story in Volume 37: Craft.

Encircled

Encircled
by more than 300 inlets and islands, Finland’s watery capital has always moved to
the beat of its natural surroundings. In winter, the city’s
position (just five degrees south of the Arctic Circle) leaves it
wrapped in darkness for more than 18 hours a day. Come June, the
capital is raised from cosy slumber with near-infinite daylight
that moves life outdoors: Alabaster skies are swept with a hazy
hue, café terraces spill merrily onto the waterfront and
bright-eyed bathers flock to its beaches.

Perhaps in reaction to its counterpoint of seasons, Finland has
never been a place that does things by halves. A global leader
across industries including tech, sustainability and design, the
country’s international accolades abound. This year marks
Helsinki’s 10th anniversary as World Design Capital, while the
World Happiness Report has once again ranked Finland as the
happiest country in the world (for the fifth year in a row).

Helsinki cathedral, left, and an art installation at
contemporary art space Amos Rex

Yet despite its heaving trophy cabinet, the Finnish capital
remains humble and understated. “Helsinki is a ‘come as you are’
sort of place,” says Leena Karppinen – a local who was born in the
city. “Finnish identity is built on modesty so it’s not in our
culture to be showy.” It’s an attitude that seeps into every thread
of the city’s fabric, too – from its design and architecture right
through to its food and drink offering.

Once one of the poorest countries in the world, things changed
for Finland after it gained independence from Russia in 1917,
henceforth earning its place on the international map for its
pioneering moves in functional design. The newly democratic
republic prioritised practicality and affordability – a radical
movement that elevated simplicity into an aesthetic choice, and a
blueprint for design that still defines the city today.

Midsummer in Helsinki, when long balmy days are spent dipping
between saunas and the sea, is a strong reminder of the grounding
force of nature. Art, craft and design may be Helsinki’s proudest
exports, but it’s the city’s proximity to the natural world that
fuels its enduring creative spirit.

Discover more stories from the Craft issue here. | Visit myhelsinki.fi
to find out more.

Simple pleasures: Where to stay in Helsinki, Finland