Named after the ancient corn beer enjoyed by Incas, Chicha is a restaurant by Gastón Acurio, Peru’s most famous chef. It’s fine dining in a refreshingly unpretentious atmosphere – and if you bag a balcony table, you’ll get beautiful views over the Plaza Regocijo. Chicha’s food is the best of novo andino cuisine, mixing Andean ingredients with international influences: the most popular dishes include fresh trout ceviche with lime and chilli, mushroom and quinoa stew, rocoto relleno (hot stuffed peppers) and lomo saltado – a local dish of flash-fried strips of spicy sirloin. Booking in advance is a must.

The only vegan restaurant in Cusco happens to be one of the most popular – and in a very carnivorous region, this is testament to just how good the food is. The menu has a wide range of international dishes that are all 100% vegan, from pad thai to lasagne, burgers and sushi (and even a disconcertingly delicious vegan cheeseboard). People watching the pennies should go for the “menu del dia” where you can get a salad, soup, a main course, dessert and drink for just ten soles (about £2.50). Whatever you choose, be sure to leave room for the cheesecake.

This excellent restaurant in the up-and-coming San Blas neighbourhood is a prime example of the healthy-eating movement.

As Cusco’s main market, the bustling San Pedro should be visited by all tourists, but not just for its range of shawls, towels, ponchos, tablecloths and the like. This is where you can also buy a variety of Andean cheeses, meats, tropical fruit, fresh vegetables (including a whole aisle dedicated to potatoes), warm empanadas and fresh juices. There are also several stalls selling hot food; these are popular with locals and shouldn’t be missed if you’re on a budget or want to sample proper authentic fare.