A Pocket Guide to Quang Nam Province, Vietnam
Join us as we explore cinnamon-scented jungles, sizzling street-food markets and village craft workshops on a go-slow tour of Hoi An and the central province of Quang Nam
05 April, 2023
In partnership with
An
ancient land of thick, biodiverse forests, soft sand beaches,
stretching rice paddy plains and historic, crumbling towns, the
central Vietnamese province of Quang Nam is bordered by Laos to the
west and the South China Sea to the east. While it’s best known for
Hoi An, a preserved 15th-century port town (and Unesco World
Heritage site), visitors who venture beyond the banh mi capital
will be richly rewarded.
Know where to go in Quang Nam and you’ll find crumbling Hindu
temples, hidden war-era tunnels and fishing villages untouched by
time. Jump on a scooter (or bicycle, or bamboo basket boat) to
explore its verdant islands, discover towns with sizzling food
scenes (and yes, the brilliant banh mi offering in Hoi An) and
villages packed with artisan potteries and bamboo workshops that
will have you frantically adding kilos to your luggage allowance.
Make tracks to the plains, and you’ll discover fields of rice,
maize and cassava that extend as far as the eye can see, while
higher up, in the highlands, the scent of cinnamon and ginseng
fills the air. Find your way to the province’s more densely
forested areas – more than half of it is covered in jungle – and
you’ll double your chances of an encounter with a rare red-shanked
douc langur, an endangered arboreal monkey beloved for its fluffy
red and grey face.
Hoi An, left, and Quang Nam forests
A far cry from Vietnam’s textbook tour destinations, Quang Nam
invites travellers to slow down, immerse themselves and adjust
their perspective. Forget whistle-stop tours on overloaded buses;
this region is all about taking it easy. A week’s adventuring
across the central province is sufficient, but you’re sure to want
to linger for longer.
Paradise found: a guide to Quang Nam, Vietnam
To Stay
From homespun eco-lodges to all-singing, all-dancing beach
resorts, Quang Nam has accommodation to suit all travellers. Here
are three of our favourites.
Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa
Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa
After a few days of meandering around the well-preserved streets
of Hoi An, this beachside bolthole is a great place to kick back
and relax. You name it, the hotel has it: modern elegant rooms, a
heavenly infinity pool, a shack-style cocktail bar, tennis court,
gym… It’s also the perfect jumping off point for exploring Quang
Nam’s sparkling coastline.
La Siesta Hoi An Resort & Spa
Set in the heart of things, just outside the old centre of Hoi
An, this smart boutique hotel pairs traditional wooden ceiling fans
and patterned floor tiles with contemporary luxury. It’s equal
parts swagger and swoon. Head to the pool for a refreshing dip or
shake off the jet lag with a pummelling in the hotel’s palm-flanked
spa.
TUI Blue Nam Hoi An
TUI Blue Nam Hoi An
Located on Tam Tien beach, a yawning arc of golden sand just one
hour’s drive from Hoi An, this coastal wonder proves that big is
beautiful. An excellent choice for families, the hotel has more
than 300 rooms, three restaurants and a first-class entertainment
and activity programme (including affordable local excursions). You
can even learn Vietnamese.
To Eat
Prepare to get your spice on. Whether you’re looking for
finger-licking street food or sumptuous seafood feasts, Quang Nam
delivers. Here are our top spots for dining out.
Morning Glory
Morning Glory
A local institution, this lantern-lit refuge is famous for its
regional dishes stripped back to their essential components. Try
the white rose dumplings or cao lau (noodles with marinated pork) –
both done the traditional way. There are masses of veggie options,
too. Want to have a go at cooking? You can. Ms Vy, the restaurant’s
delightful owner, offers culinary classes.
The Field
It doesn’t come any more rustic or ravishing than this al fresco
out-of-towner. Hewn from bamboo, it might be modest in size but
it’s massive in ambition. Like its name suggests, the restaurant is
located in a field (well, a rice paddy) and the green vibes don’t
end there: it’s zero waste, fully sustainable and organic. Trust
us, the food is just as good as the views.
Mango Rooms
Mango Rooms
If you relish a slice of innovation with your main, this buzzing
Asian-fusion restaurant is the place to go. Expect a scene. There’s
a DJ on weekends, a smoker on the premises (try the smoked duck),
fermented dragon fruit and champagne cocktails. Chef Duc, the surf-
and sushi-loving bon viveur who runs it, will ensure you have a
memorable visit.
To Buy
Keep some cash handy. Artfully crafted souvenirs can be found in
every corner of this province. These are the must-visit stores
we’re making tracks to.
Metiseko
Thanks to Hoi An’s long history of weaving and tailoring, it’s
possible to have a suit made to measure in the blink of an eye. But
for something floaty and off the rail, head to Metiseko. Its
organic cotton and mulberry silk dresses in an array of
eye-catching prints are as bright and breezy as they come.
Sunday
Look no further than this high-end boutique for bamboo
handicrafts, vivid ceramics, wispy woven basket bags and palm-leaf
placemats made by skilled artisans. Alternatively, for something
more hands-on, swing by the Thanh Ha pottery village, just a
10-minute drive away.
Hoi An market seller, left, and a city street. Photo credit:
Efired / Shutterstock
Hoi An Market
A few packets of fragrant Vietnamese tea or spices such as
turmeric, chilli and cardamom are fantastic souvenirs to take home
and certain to elevate your dinner party game. All manner of
savoury delights, souvenirs and trinkets can be found among the 150
stalls at Hoi An’s bustling street market. It’s open daily.
19 Trần Phú, Cẩm Châu, Hoi An
To Do
Whether you’re more of a flop down on a white-sand beach and
only move for fresh-caught seafood kind of traveller, or more
inclined to spend afternoons exploring ancient temple ruins, one
thing is certain: you’ll have plenty to keep you entertained in
Quang Nam.
Cham Islands beach, left, and a fisherman | Photo credit:
Oleg D / Shutterstock
The Cham Islands
Hidden sandy coves, fresh seafood and sensational snorkelling is
what you can expect on the Cham Islands. There are eight islands to
choose from, all just a 30 minute speed boat ride away from the
mainland. Set within a protected marine biosphere, the coral, clear
waters and sea life here is like nowhere else. There aren’t any
hotels to speak of, but you can bed down in a guesthouse or
homestay for as little as £10 a night.
Ky Anh Tunnels
For a sobering glimpse into the harsh realities of the
Vietnamese war, this underground network of tunnels (the third
largest in the country) is well worth a detour. No one knows them
better than Mr Ta, local guide and gatekeeper of the tunnels. A
natural storyteller, his tales of courage over adversity will stay
with you for years.
My Son sanctuary
My Son Sanctuary
Expect the hairs on your arms to stand on end when you set foot
among these ancient temple ruins. Enshrouded in thick jungle an
hour west of Hoi An, this UNESCO World Heritage site is often
referred to as the Angkor Wat of Vietnam. There are more than 20
buildings to explore, with masses to learn and unearth among the
crumbling shrines, tombs and inner sanctums, all slowly being
reclaimed by nature.
How to get there
Fly to Da Nang International Airport (with stop-offs in Hanoi,
Ho Chi Minh, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Singapore or Seoul), from where
it’s a 40-minute drive to Hoi An.
When to go
Visit between February and August for warm temperatures and
sunshine.
The Lowdown
For information about Quang Nam, head to visitquangnam.com or follow @visitquangnam on Instagram.
With over 45 years of experience creating luxury holidays to
the world’s most desirable destinations, Kenwood Travel have truly mastered the art of
escape. Choose to book your Quang Nam holiday directly online, or
talk to one of their Vietnam Specialists on 020 7749 9278 to start
planning the trip of a lifetime.
