Drinking with Dionysus: an Insider Guide to the Vineyards of Southern Greece
Guiding us through Cretan organic estates and introducing us to innovators on Kos, sommelier Mark Osburn takes us on an assyrtiko-assisted pilgrimage through the vineyards of southern Greece.
26 July, 2022
Does
wine taste better when sipped on its home soil? It’s a
question we’ve long pondered. Regardless of the science, we’ve
rarely tasted better bins than those served at a local Greek taverna, atop a blue-checked tablecloth,
in a glass carafe.
Having recently returned from a wine-scouting trip in Greece, sommelier and SommSelect
discoveries manager Mark Osburn is well versed in the country’s
most exciting wineries and vineyards. Fresh from exploring its
historic landscapes and fascinating growing techniques, he’s come
to the conclusion that Greece is one of the most unique wine
nations on earth, deserving of a place beside Tuscany’s brunette
hillside terraces and Bordeaux’s château-crowned vineyards. We sat
down with the grape connoisseur to find out why we should be paying
attention to Hellenic bins, and to get some expert tips on the
vineyards to visit when planning a wine-focused trip.
A sommelier’s pick of Greece’s top vineyards
SommSelects’ Mark Osburn, left, and the harvest at Ktima
Akrani Winery on Kos.
Santorini
The micro-scale farming and powerfully distinct terroir of
Santorini will mesmerise wine lovers. With a curved backbone
spanning just 19km, the island is small enough that everything is a
short drive away, no matter where you’re staying, making it perfect
for visiting multiple locations. Mark recommends choosing one base
– somewhere like the 12-suite Istoria – and then setting off from there to
visit the various wineries.
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Hatzidakis Winery
Why visit: “If you know Santorini, you’ll know
of the late Haridimos Hatzidakis, ‘The Wizard of Wine’. He was a
mastermind who toiled for decades, conducting innovative,
industry-leading work that still reverberates today. Considered by
many to be the most talented winemaker to ever grace the island, he
was a fearless champion for natural farming and low-intervention
winemaking. His vinous creations first impressed locals in the 90s,
then importers, before eventually making their way onto top wine
lists and into shops around the world. Today, his daughters oversee
this jewel-box estate and its newly built, state-of-the-art winery.
It’s by appointment only – but worth the hassle.”
What to try: “Keep an eye out for assyrtiko,
the white wine grape native to Santorini. At Hatzidakis, the
Skitali and Cuvée No.15 assyrtikos are a must. If you’re lucky,
they’ll uncork an older nykteri for you.”
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Estate Argyros
Why visit: “You’ll definitely find Argyros
bottles on the tables at tavernas across Santorini, as well as in
wine stores further afield. Next year marks the vineyard’s 120th
anniversary, making now a great time to visit.”
What to try: “The Cuvée Monsignori. The
vineyard has a selection of ungrafted, seemingly immortal vines
that have soaked up the island’s volcanic soils for over 200 years.
The vineyard uses the fruits to create an assyrtiko of jaw-dropping
power and beauty.”
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Koutsoyannopoulos Winery
Why visit: “By Santorini standards,
Koutsoyannopoulos is a relic, having been operating since 1880. If
you ever find yourself at the winery, prepare to learn all about
its origins in the winery’s peculiar, hand-built museum. Deep
underground is a sprawling maze filled with the history of
Santorini winemaking, complete with audio guides and (slightly
terrifying) animatronics. Still, the overarching lesson here is
that Koutsoyannopoulos is one of Greece’s oldest, most venerable
winemaking families. In recent decades, it has been a pioneer in
reviving the island’s ancient vine-growing traditions. Today,
fourth-generation owner Georgios Koutsoyannopoulos crafts
world-class assyrtikos from the family’s small estate.”
What to try: “Got a sweet tooth? Pray they’ll
open an old vin santo for you.”
Crete
Although not as well known as Santorini, the sprawling island of
Crete has no need to fight for the limelight. This verdant,
topographically diverse paradise is home to some of the most
historic winemaking traditions on Earth. It’s one of those
stunning, untouched landscapes that feels frozen in ancient times –
just like its wines. Bed down at Manili Boutique Suites, and don’t miss Osburn’s
favourite restaurant, Peskesi, in Heraklion.
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Lyrarakis Estate
Why visit: “Lyrarakis Estate is a quick
30-minute drive from the capital city of Heraklion, making it a
perfect, stress-free destination for those wishing to dip their
toes into the Cretan wine scene. You’ll experience a gaggle of
local grape varieties that you’ve never heard of – dafní, plytó,
melissaki – but don’t let that scare you away. Lyrarakis has been
largely responsible for elevating Crete’s contemporary wine scene
in the past decade.”
What to try: “Give those local grapes a try:
dafní, plytó and melissaki.”
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Domaine Paterianakis
Why visit: “This is Crete’s very first
certified organic winery, and is run by sisters Emmanouela and
Nicky, the third generation of the Paterianakis family. Book a
lunch with them and they’ll treat you to a seasonal, homemade meal
paired with five estate wines. I recommend scheduling your visit in
tandem with one to Lyrarakis Estate, since they’re situated within
2km of each other.”
What to try: “The vibrant vidiano and juicy,
lightly spicy kotsifali-mandilari red blend are standouts. Keep an
eye out for the tsikoudia, too. It’s a special Cretan brandy
produced from grape pomace.”
The Peloponnese
Greece’s Peloponnese region is home to some of the world’s most
storied winemakers. Head to the ancient Nemea Valley, where
Hercules supposedly slayed his first lion, and Zeus built a
personal sanctuary, to discover some exotic and unusual white
wines. Most of the wineries in the region offer on-site
accommodation, so inexperienced oenophiles needn’t worry about
making it back home after a full-on tasting experience.
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Seméli Estate
Why visit: “Established over 40 years ago,
Seméli is located at an altitude of 550m, in hilly Koutsi. This
sky-reaching region ranks among the top ‘crus’ for wine production
in Nemea, the best-known PDO (Protected Denomination of Origin) on
Greece’s Peloponnese peninsula.”
What to try: “Along with Nemea reds from the
estate’s prized agiorgitiko grape, Seméli specialises in whites
from the neighbouring Mantinia PDO. Look out for the moschofilero
variety.”
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Mercouri Estate
Why visit: “Mercouri is one of the oldest
family-owned wineries in Greece. Despite the newer renovations, its
enchanting, old-school charm still shines as you explore the
original family home from 1874, the rustic agro-museum and the
domed chapel, all of which overlook the dazzling Ionian Sea.”
What to try: “Refosco, now known locally as
‘mercouri’, is a prominent grape that you’ll only find on this
estate.”
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Monemvasia Winery
Why visit: “I’ll be honest. Monemvasia is worth
a visit and its terroir tour is brilliant, but the reason I always
recommend the winery is because of the eponymous town of
Monemvasia, a short drive away. It’s an ancient Greek marvel – a
tiny island town accessible only by a narrow bridge, with a
striking medieval castle at its heart that is carved directly out
of the rockface.”
What to try: “A bit of everything:
moschofilero, asproudi, assyrtiko, monemvasia, roditis, agiorgitiko
and mavroudi.”
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Gaia Wines
Why visit: “Although Gaia’s Santorini bottlings
are some of the most admired ‘back pocket’ wines in sommelier
circles, it’s important to know that the producer also has a second
location on the mainland, here in Nemea. Come to try bins of
flagship agiorgitiko grape. My favourite is blended with
syrah.”
What to try: “The syrah.”
Paros
Windswept Paros made its fortune in ancient times thanks to its
fertile soils and temperate climate, and those same virtues make
growing grapes a doddle on the Cyclades isle. Base yourselves in
the bougainvillea-draped mountain town of Lefkes, then head out to
find the island’s best bins.
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Moraitis Winery
Why visit: “The Moraitis family has been making
wine on Paros for well over 100 years and this is regularly ranked
among the top organic estates in the Cyclades. So, if you’re
planning a trip to Santorini, I strongly suggest adding Paros to
the list. It’s just a quick ferry ride over.
What to try: “Those who enjoy a
thirst-quenching Provençal pink should seek out Moraitis’ own
rosés, made from aidani.”
Kos
The Bounty ad beaches of Kos bely the island’s craggy,
rambunctious interior. Ignore the pull of Poseidon, though, and
you’ll find an unruly wilderness, dotted with Corinthian ruins,
lush flora and a strange, almost tropical climate.
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Ktima Akrani (Triantafyllopoulos) Winery
Why visit: “Located just 5km off the coast of
Turkey, Kos is known as the ‘Garden of the Aegean’ because of its
verdant landscape. Despite its distance from Greece proper, this
lush island is worth the trouble. Ktima Akrani promises familiar
wines served up within a tropical oasis, producing modern-style
wines from well-established grape varieties. Its work, in a short
time, has rekindled Kos’ winemaking fame and made the winery one to
watch in the region.”
What to try: “There’s a lot to unpack here, but
keep an eye out for regional varieties like athiri and
malagousia.”
The Lowdown
Sommelier Mark Osburn is the discoveries manager at SommSelect, which provides a
sommelier-curated selection of bottles for curious wine
drinkers.
