Hippy Playa Zicatela ranks among the world’s best surf spots, where boarders come to cruise 20ft waves and take part in the World Surfing League’s Puerto Escondido Challenge. Strong currents mean swimming is a no, but the buzzy nightlife gets a big thumbs up. Less confident on the boards? Learn from the pros at Zicazteca Surf School or Oasis (which throws Spanish-language classes into the mix), or head to La Punta for more mellow waters. Of course, Puerto’s shores aren’t just for surfers. On Playa Bacocho, visit the Vive Mar conservation project as it releases baby turtles into the ocean at sunset. The smaller coves of Puerto Angelito and Manzanillo are great for snorkelling, and sheltered Playa Carrizalillo is prime territory for sundowners. We recommend tracing the mile-long Andador Escénico, a cliff-hugging walkway that links Playa Principal with mirador Sueño Posible (‘Possible Dream’). From here, you’re a pebble’s toss from the Adoquín’s pedestrian-only night market and many mezcalerias.

It’s the kind of sight that makes your breath catch in your throat. A bioluminescent lagoon lit up by phosphorescent plankton activated by movement in the water. The phenomenon happens just a handful of times each year – generally, the tail end of summer and start of winter. But Manialtepec’s a solid day-trip destination year-round. Drive 20 minutes from Puerto Escondido (some guided tours offer hotel pick-up) to hop in a kayak and gawp at 300 species of exotic birds flitting between mangrove and jungle. Like this? Carry on west to wildlife-rich Chacahua Lagoon National Park.