Where to Eat in Buenos Aires, Argentina

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Farinelli

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires’ version of London’s Ottolenghi, Farinelli has two locations, in Palermo and in Recoleta, both perfect for brunch and lunch (but closed for dinner). Food is made fresh with a different menu each day – their passion fruit cheesecake is a must. With a seasonal menu ideal for lunch and brunch, Farinelli offers a selection of salads, sandwiches and daily dishes that revolve around the freshest ingredients. Tuck in at this cute Palermo outpost or take away for a picnic on one of the many surrounding green spaces.

Address

Arroyo 900 C1007AAB

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Osaka

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant with two spectacular locations in Puerto Madero and Palermo Viejo. Palermo Viejo is particularly impressive, with a vast terrace perfect for after-dinner drinks. If fruity cocktails are your thing, don’t miss their classic “berry nice” cocktail.

Address

Soler 5608 C1425BYH

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Dadá

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A classic spot for the young cool porteño crowd, Dadá is the ideal place to go with friends and get a feeling for the local scene. Away from the regular tourist circuit, it is a vibrant yet relaxed sidewalk bar; a meeting place in Microcentro. Sometimes a lucky few enjoy an “after-hours closing party”, when bartenders close the curtains and partygoers dance on the bar top.

Address

San Martin 941 El Centro

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Tegui

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Incongruously hidden behind a graffitied wall, Tegui is the brainchild of much-lauded Argentine chef, German Martitegui. Inside, elegant interiors take second billing to the food. The 10-course tasting menu includes oysters, deer and seafood. Try the twists on typical local fare, like mate custard and mate soufflé. Admire the contemporary architecture and décor while working your way through the chef’s menu: red tuna and Camembert soufflé are firm favourites. Book in advance.

Address

Costa Rica 5852 Palermo, C1414BTJ

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Casa Coupage

Buenos Aires, Argentina

This closed-door restaurant was started by a couple as the result of a successful supper club, and some say it serves the best food and wine in the whole of Buenos Aires. Go for the tasting menu and let them know if you have any dietary requirements beforehand; they are happy to accommodate. It’s simple fare perfectly done and the atmosphere is fantastic. Be sure to chat to the owners; they are fountains of knowledge and tell wonderful stories.

Address

Güemes 4382 1425

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El Obrero

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A typical cantina, this restaurant is considered a landmark in the historic La Boca neighbourhood. It gets extremely busy at lunchtime, so arrive early or make a reservation. Be sure to try their amazing Spanish tortilla.

Address

Agustín Road, Caffarena 64 C1157ADB

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Chan Chan

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A classic choice for porteños in the market for Peruvian food, this place serves top-knotch ceviche. Neither pretentious nor overly fashionable, it’s all about the food here. As a result, it’s always rammed with loud groups gathered around sharing plates. If you’re unable to get a table, try El Perlado just next door.

Address

Avenue Hipólito Yrigoyen 1390 C1076

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Aldo's Vinoteca

Buenos Aires, Argentina

With over 600 varieties of wine, Aldo’s is the perfect spot for oenophiles and jazz aficionados in San Telmo. Unknown to many, Aldo’s is connected by a staircase to the Bepob Jazz Club, where you can have a post-dinner glass of wine accompanied by some smooth melodies.

Address

Moreno 372 C1091AAH

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Nuestro Secreto

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Located in a beautiful Buenos Aires mansion that is part of the Four Seasons Hotel, this grill has an atmosphere that is unparalleled in the city. Tables are positioned in a secret garden or under a glass roof. Fancy a late night? Be sure to check out the hotel’s Ponyline Bar – one of the best after-office watering holes.

Address

Posadas 1086/88 C1011

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Guido's - CLOSED

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A pure and simple Italian in Palermo, Guido’s is an all-time favourite. Order nibbles during the daily happy hour – a perfect equaliser if you go overboard on the red.

Address

República de la India 2843 C1425FCC

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Caseros

Buenos Aires, Argentina

An ideal lunch spot after a walk round the San Telmo antique market on Sundays, this place is cosy, affordable and has very good food.

Address

Caseros 486 San Telmo

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El Cuartito

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Walking distance from the Colón Theater in the city centre, El Cuartito is a lively pizza spot for the post-theatre crowd. There are both seating and standing (cheaper) options, as well as takeaway if you don’t want to queue. Their cheese and onion “fugazzeta” pizza is legendary.

Address

Talcahuano 937 C1013AAS

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Boca A Boca

Buenos Aires, Argentina

This corner house next to the Usina de las Artes in La Boca has a lovely, colourful patio for lunch and dinner. There is tango music in the evenings, and occasionally lessons are offered in an adjacent wooden-floor room. Go for Argentinian wine and local cuts of meat.

Address

Calle Benito Perez Galdos 207 C1155AGE

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Proper

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Housed in a converted mechanic’s garage, this quirky restaurant offers a vegetable-laden escape from the city’s carnivore-dominated menus. Most dishes are cooked in a wood-fire oven and the open kitchen adds to the lively atmosphere. Don’t miss the shishito peppers or calamari.

Address

Aráoz 1676 1414

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Mishiguene

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Roughly translating as “lovably crazy,” Mishiguene is fanatic about its produce. Inspired by traditional Jewish cuisine, with influences from Eastern Europe, the Middle East and North Africa, the menu is reflective of the global threads that make up the tapestry of Jewish cuisine. Highlights include the pastrami and white salmon.

Address

Lafinur 3368 C1425FAJ

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Cosi Mi Piace - CLOSED

Buenos Aires, Argentina

For a Latin American capital with a strong Italian heritage, pizza is always a popular choice. In a city teaming with options, Cosi Mi Piace stands out for its thin and crispy base. With a focus on sustainability, all ingredients are organically sourced from local farms. Grab a side table or sit at the L-shaped marble bar that divides the restaurant –one side chefs, the other diners. Antipasti and daily specials are also available.

Address

El Salvador 4618 1425BPJ

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Nola

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A casual spot for Cajun food and craft beer, this Palermo haunt serves some of the best fried chicken in Buenos Aires. The New Orleans-inspired menu fuses French, Spanish and Caribbean flavours; typical plates of seafood, pork and rice are flavoured with cayenne pepper and classics include cornbreads and gumbo soup, with a fish or sausage base.

Address

Gorriti 4389

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Patagonia Sur

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Renowned Argentine chef Francis Mallman’s restaurant in La Boca has limited tables, a set menu, top-notch food and stellar wine. The space is cosy, with an eclectic collector’s charm about it as plates, picture frames and other oddities are displayed in overlapping sequences across walls. The gnocchi and the steak are both sublime.

Address

Rocha 801 La Boca C1166AEA

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Fervor

Buenos Aires, Argentina

A great steak and seafood joint in Recoleta, sit at the high bar for an aperitif before heading to your table, where you’ll be surrounded by mostly local clientele. Dark wood and high ceilings making for pleasant surroundings, supplemented by an extensive menu.

Address

Posadas 1519 C1112ADA

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La Cabrera

Buenos Aires, Argentina

One of the capital’s greatest grills, this is an extremely popular spot among locals and there are now several branches around town. Portions are huge so take heed from the waiters’ suggestions and leave room for dessert. Do not miss the chocolate volcano to finish.

Address

José Antonio Cabrera 5099

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Los Galgos

A popular downtown meeting spot since the early 20th century, Los Galgos attracts an eclectic crowd of businessmen, younger groups and 80 year-olds reading the newspaper. After 90 years in business the bar suddenly closed, but in 2015 Julián Díaz and Florencia Capella, creators of the famed 878 Bar, brought it back to life. After a painstaking, sympathetic renovation, Los Galgos now feels like it never closed its doors. The old family safe – too heavy to move – remains behind the counter. Visit around 10am for an “early” porteño breakfast, taking advantage of the traditional-meets-gourmet coffee menu by local roasters Puerto Blest. Alternatively, come during aperitivo around 5pm when the vermouth and negronis are on tap.

Address

Callao 501

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El Viejo Buzón

This Caballito café is not your typical tourist destination. Having served as a bakery for the best part of 100 years, El Viejo Buzón was transformed into a bar and restaurant in 1987, and today is a gathering spot for fans – and players – of local football club Ferro Carril Oeste. Football memorabilia covers the walls; traditional folk music plays overhead. The café’s name, meaning The Old Postbox, comes from the British-style red letterbox that sits outside – when city officials tried to remove the in 1999, they were forced to return it 13 days later thanks to strong protests by locals. Inside the café, the menu features no-frills classics. Come here for a real feel of Buenos Aires or, if you’re brave enough, visit on a Sunday after the full-time whistle blows.

Address

Neuquén 1100

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La Farmacia

On the intersection of Avenue Directorio and Rivera Indarte street, La Farmacia is a testament to the history and hard work of the Vidal family. In 2000, Lucas Vidal decided to reincarnate his grandfather’s defunct local pharmacy as a café-bar. With the help of his architect father, he transformed this corner establishment, which originally opened in 1910. Walls are adorned with old pharmacy bottles, pill boxes and mystery concoctions, and the original farmacia sign sits proudly behind the bar. It’s a charming spot to reflect and people-watch in the Flores neighbourhood, an area popular among the porteño elite and where Jorge Mario Bergoglio – perhaps better known as Pope Francis – was born and raised.

Address

Avenida Directorio 2400

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Bar de Cao

A classic fixture in the San Cristóbal neighbourhood for over 100 years, Bar de Cao is like a time capsule. Step inside be transported to a time of tango and conviviality, when the Cao brothers lived upstairs and celebrated their family milestones in the bar. Patrons will likely regale you of a time when a beloved local delinquent – known as “el Mingo” – would sit at the bar and share a pitcher of sidra with racing driver Onofre Marimón. Visit early evening and savour the Picada Gran Cao, a charcuterie board featuring a bounty of locally sourced ingredients. It’s best washed down with Hesperidina, a classic Argentine aperitif of bitter-sweet orange peels – order it on ice or with soda water and lemon, the porteño way.

Address

Avenida Independencia 2400

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Café Margot

Saunter through the tango-loving Boedo neighbourhood and you’ll be drawn by Café Margot’s intricate sign, an example of the long-lost art of fileteado. Originally created by European immigrants, this botanical style of drawing and lettering is an emblem of Argentina. It comes as small surprise, then, that Café Margot, which opened in 1904, offers a window into the country’s culture – it even counts president Juan Perón as one of its former patrons. Order the signature turkey escabeche sandwich, made to a closely guarded recipe.

Address

Avenida Boedo 857

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Bar Mar Azul

Mostly frequented by lawyers and law students due to its proximity to the City’s Tribunal Court and the El Salvador University School of Law, this bar is an insight into the Buenos Aires of the Forties, with its traditional windows that open up to greet summer breeze. This no-frills café and bar is the perfect stop for an afternoon pick-me-up of strong espresso and pastafrola, a jam-filled shortcrust pastry. You’ll likely be served by waiter Carlos – say hi; he’s been part of the Bar Mar Azul family for more than 20 years.

Address

Tucumán 1700