We We closed our eyes and turned our faces towards the sun, the scent of sunscreen and salt wafting through the air. We could have been anywhere in the world. A remote Greek island, somewhere on the West Coast or perhaps a sleepy Italian fishing village. Just as our imaginations began to take over, we heard: "Shall we go inside for a cuppa, Angela?" We turned around to see a stout old woman in a string vest beckoning her friend. Angela, it seemed, had been enjoying the sunshine a little too much and her arms, chest and face had turned a worrying shade of magenta. They packed up their stripy umbrella and plucked two British flags from the sand, waddling up towards a white hut selling fish and chips, pizza and kebabs. We were not in Greece, California or Italy. We were in Margate in Kent, on one of the hottest days of the year.

While Margate may have a little way to go before it becomes "the new Brighton", it's hard to ignore its growing appeal. Londoners have been flocking to this town of late, lured by low house prices and short commute from the capital. They have brought with them speciality coffee, craft beer and 'locavore' (eating locally sourced produce) dining. In the folds of the old town there is a wealth of curiosity shops, Scandi-style homeware stores and vibrant little cafes flanked by old, peeling pubs. With the Turner Contemporary gallery at its heart, Margate's art scene is flourishing (Tracey Emin grew up here) with independent galleries hosting a year-round calendar of exhibitions. Seafood is everywhere, from pastel-coloured oyster bars to hip restaurants serving local catches with natural wine. But the old Margate of scruffy caffs, boarded-up shop fronts and empty, flashing games arcades lives on.

It is the England of photographer Martin Parr's vision - one of dripping ice cream, dodgy tattoos, sagging sun chairs, battered cod and fading amusement rides. The sweeping beach is overlooked by concrete tower blocks and ferris wheels. And the sunsets, which JMW Turner called the most beautiful in world, throw dusky pink light over the jetty and turn the sea dark blue. With more outsiders than ever jumping at the chance to live here, Margate continues to change and grow. But its old, gritty spirit is made of tougher stuff. With the two sides of this seaside town at play, there has never been a better time to visit.