There’s good reason why people are still prepared to wait hours for a table at Bukhara; this is one of the best Indian restaurants in the world. If you’re going with a group, don’t miss the legendary black daal and be sure to order naan for the whole table. If you struggle to get a reservation, don’t panic – Bukhara’s regal sister restaurant, Dum Pukht, is an enduring favourite with in-the-know Delhi-ites and is only steps away.

The quirky-casual Parsi cafés of old Mumbai have often been reincarnated around the globe – London’s Dishoom has been a runaway success – but few have managed it in India better than Delhi’s Sodabottleopenerwala (literally meaning, “the one who opens soda bottles”) hidden above the bustle of Khan Market. Go for excellent kebabs and decor that’ll have you reaching for your camera. For a true-blue experience and seriously under-the-radar Parsi delicacies – they even serve Pallonji’s Raspberry Soda – locals swear by Rustom’s Parsi Bhonu, in ITO. Go, if you’re near Connaught Place.

While India’s most decorated Indian restaurant is currently making waves with its latest outpost in London’s Mayfair, the original shows no signs of slowing down and having recently moved to the minimalist Lodhi hotel, it continues to collect industry awards as most of us do Instagram likes. Leave any “curry house” mentalities at the door; this is a showcase of inventive, nuanced flavours and a gaggle of the country’s elite marvelling at their plates. “Will travel for food…” but not without your wallet.

Go big or go home; the servings at this homely café are enough to satiate even the maddest of hatters. If you have time for lunch, regulars rave about their pasta dishes, but make no mistake, the real draw here is dessert. Try the cheesecake or the five-chocolate sponge cake (which you will never be able to finish).

There’s never a dull moment in this eclectic loft, run by an ex-Oberoi chef who seems to have brought his clientele along with him. Don’t let the dilapidated entrance throw you off – inside you’ll find heavy industrial furniture with an old-world feel, a talented sushi chef, as well as an extensive sake, shochu and cocktail menu and a terrace overlooking the market below. Make yours a blueberry mojito.

No trip to Delhi is complete without trying some of the city’s famous chaat. Head straight for Purani Dilli (Old Delhi) to Prince’s Paan for authentic street food without playing Delhi-belly roulette; the food here is prepared with purified mineral water. Favourites include aloo ki tikki (spiced-potato fritters) and palakpatta chaat (crisp, fried spinach topped with spiced potato, yoghurt, chutneys and masala). If you have time – and you’re there in winter – do not miss Old Delhi’s famous daulat ki chaat (clouds of milk foam with saffron, sugar and nuts) in nearby Chandni Chowk.

While firmly on the tourist trail – it arguably put Old Delhi on the modern foodie map – Karim’s remains a favourite with locals for serious value for money over 100 years after opening. This place is every carnivore’s dream; the kebabs are evangelised for good reason and it evens serves fried bheja (brains). The real draw? Give them 24-hours notice and you can order a whole lamb stuffed with chicken, eggs and fragrant biryani, and garnished to high heaven. You may just need to take a few dozen or so friends along to help you eat it.

The maverick concept of Farzi Café – Indian bistro-meets-molecular gastronomy – seems to be working; they’ve opened seven sites across India, one in Dubai and in late 2018 will set up shop on London’s Haymarket. Enter through an unassuming shop door on Connaught Place for a dimly lit, speakeasy vibe: think mac and cheese pakoras, masala lamb sliders, green thai curry paneer tikka and cheesecake sandwiches. It’s an unsurprising hit.

Few places can say they’ve survived the rise and fall of the British Empire – but Wenger’s can. It was built in 1926, before even its fashionable Connaught Place surrounding. Go for a shot of history with your espresso; the guys behind the bar are veterans and do a decent trade in cakes, sandwiches and old-school pastries. Nostalgia abounds in this part of town, too – if you have room for more, Shake Square next door (formerly Keventer’s) is legendary for the best milkshakes in town

Old is certainly gold where this no-frills institution is concerned. Formerly a hole-in-the-wall counter, Khan Chacha’s kati rolls (kebabs in flat bread) have proved so popular with everyone from children to world-famous chefs that they upgraded to a canteen on the first floor of trendy Khan Market and rolled out more locations across the city. The paneer tikka roll is not to be missed.

This much-loved neighbourhood restaurant (albeit an upscale one) is a safe bet for North Indian and Mughal classics. Popular with the diplomatic community, it’s an excellent place to try the famous dilli-butter chicken – about as far from its UK namesake as you can get – and pudina paratha (flatbread with butter and mint).