Over Over the years, India's capital has become recognisable as a changeover point for travellers venturing further afield - to the nation's most famous attractions. Instead of a destination in its own right, Delhi became the reality check for those expecting to arrive to colourful, bejewelled palaces and neat rows of Ambassador cars. But times are changing. While there are no second chances for first impressions, history proves that Delhi is no stranger when it comes to revolution - and in recent years, it's really come into its own.

The city has been slowly reinventing itself as an epicentre for commerce - now at India's cutting edge for fashion, technology, food and art - and offers history, culture and architecture aplenty, while fusing old and new. Home to 19 million people in total, Old Delhi (referred to as 'Purani Dilli') sits alongside New Delhi - created as the primary base for the British Raj - meaning visitors effectively get two cities for the price of one, both with strong, distinctive personalities to discover. There's no doubt that the first impression may be one of organised chaos, but look a little more closely and you'll find a generous amount of environmentally-protected greenery, and pockets of tranquillity scattered throughout.